Tuesday, December 30, 2008

springtime dish cloth

Springtime DishCloth Pattern
Fireflys Spring Time Hand Knit Dish ClothI made this pretty hand knit washcloth / dishcloth from a sturdy worsted weight cotton in a pretty and bright early spring green color.

The primary pattern stitch is the twisted purl from Barbara Walker's "A Treasury of Knitting Patterns". I love the twisted purl stitch, because it is a truly reversible pattern. It doesn't look the same on both sides, but the reverse side is quite attractive; it is a perfect stitch for scarfs and dish cloths for that reason. It is a very enjoyable stitch to work, so I recommend it for all of these reasons.

The finished size is 10 1/4"; the guage is 4 1/2 stitches to the inch; I used approximately 120 yards on this cloth.


* 1 hank Fantasy Naturale, 100% Mercerized Cotton from Plymouth Yarn in color number 8011 (or similar worsted weight cotton yarn)
* U.S. Size 8 16" or 29" circular needle (or straight needles if you prefer)
* Tapestry needle

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Cast on 60 stitches.

Knit first four rows.

Pattern Rows

Rows 1 and 3: Knit across row, turn.

Row 2: K3, *P2 tog without slipping stitches from needle, then purl the first stitch again, then slip both stitches from the needle together*; repeat from * to * across row to within last three stitches; K3; turn.

Row 4: K3, P1, *repeat from * to * as per Row 2 across row to within last 4 stitches*; P1, K3, turn.

Repeat Pattern Rows 1 through 4 until entire piece measures 9 3/4".

Knit last four rows.

Cast off; break off leaving a few inches to weave tail into fabric.

Using tapestry needle, weave tails of yarn at beginning and end of piece carefully into the fabric. Trim.

You might want to block this cloth, because the pattern stitch rows tend to be looser than the border stitches on both sides, and might tend to be tighter than the border rows at the top and bottom.

If you can't bear to use this cloth to wash dishes with, you might consider using it as a pillow top. I most likely will

cozy toes hand knitted socks

Cozy Toes Hand Knit Socks
Cozy Toes Hand Knit Socks by fireflyMy daughter gave me two hanks of Chunky Misti Alpaca yarn for Christmas because she knew I was yearning to make myself a warm and cozy pair of house socks for the winter months ahead.

Misti Alpaca is an awesomely soft yarn that comes in several weights. Here is a quote from their website: "Softest Yarn Ever, Warmth Without Weight. Misti Alpaca Chunky is exquisitely soft and heavenly to knit. A favorite yarn of both the beginner & experienced knitter."

After knitting and wearing this pair of socks, I have to agree with those statements wholeheartedly.

On the right side of this page you will find a list of Misti Alpaca in the colors I have available as well as a convenient order form (see below) in case you care to order the yarn for your socks from me.

If you live in an area where alpaca socks would be too warm, choose any chunky yarn that yields the same gauge.

I believe I have developed here a simple pattern, easy for those who are new to knitting socks (perhaps trying to for the first time, I hope) and enjoyable for even an experienced knitter.

If you have an entire weekend to just knit and watch old movies, you might be able to finish a pair during that time.


* 2 hanks Chunky Misti Alpaca yarn (or 216 yards similar chunky yarn)
* Set of 5 U.S. Size 7 dpns
* Tapestry Needle

Order a yarn kit for your Cozy Toes! Choose from either Group 1 or Group 2 colors on the PayPal order form below (see color samples at right).

For a total price of $28.80 you will receive two hanks of the color you select.
Group One
Group Two


Gauge: 6 to 6.5 1x1 ribbing stitches (K1, P1) to the inch.

Please note these directions fit an average woman's 7.5 US shoe size. The leg (before the heel flap begins) is 11" long, the foot from the turning of the heel to the base of the toes measures 7.5".

To determine the proper foot length, measure the foot from the back of the heel to the base of the toes and add 1/2". If that measurement is longer than 7.5", make the leg that much shorter so that you will not run out of yarn. Likewise if the sock is for a shorter foot, you may increase the leg length by the same amount. You will be using pretty much one entire hank of yarn (108 yards) per sock.


It is very important to check your gauge by knitting a swatch before you start. Though it might seem like a pain in the behind to knit a swatch, doing so is much easier than reknitting a sock that doesn't fit properly when it is complete.

When you knit your swatch, knit it in the pattern stitch which is a 1x1 rib for this pattern. I suggest you cast on twelve stitches and work about ten rows in K1, P1 ribbing. Remove the swatch from your needles without casting off and measure your gauge. If it is off, try adjusting your tension tighter or looser or change up or down one size needles until you get the same gauge my pattern calls for. (You should unravel your swatch(es) so that you can use the yarn for your socks.)

Once you are confident you are knitting to the correct gauge, begin your first sock by casting on 40 stitches loosely; these socks are knit cuff to toe.

Arrange the 40 stitches as follows on four dpns:

* Needle 1 (N1) 11 stitches
* Needle 2 (N2) 9 stitches
* Needle 3 (N3) 11 stitches
* Needle 4 (N4) 9 stitches

Make Leg

Knit two rounds, keeping stitches fairly loose.

Work 1x1 ribbing (K1, P1, beginning each complete round with K1 and ending each complete round with P1) for about one inch.

Leg Decrease Round 1: N1 (K1,P1)twice, K2tog, P2tog, K1, P1, K1; continue 1x1 ribbing on remaining needles. Two stitches decreased, 38 stitches remain.

Work 1x1 ribbing for about one more inch.

Leg Decrease Round 2: N1 and N2 continue 1x1 ribbing; N3 (K1,P1)twice, K2tog, P2tog, K1, P1, K1; N4 continue 1x1 ribbing. Two stitches decreased, 36 stitches remain.

Continue with leg in 1x1 ribbing until entire leg measures 11", or desired length. Stop last leg round after completing stitches on N3.

Slip stitches from N3 onto N2 (these will be the instep stitches); slip stitches from N4 to N1.

Heel Flap
Cozy Toes Hand Knit Socks Cuffed

Begin the Heel Flap with right side facing, working the stitches that were on N4 and N1 as follows:

Row 1 (right side): *Slip 1 purlwise, K1*; repeat from * to * to end of row. Turn.

Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, *K1, P1*; repeat from * to * to within last stitch; end K1. Turn.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Heel Flap for a total of 18 rows.

Turn Heel

Row 1 (right side): K10, ssk, K1, turn.

Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, P3, P2tog, P1, turn.

Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, K4, K2tog, K1, turn.

Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.

Row 5: Slip 1 purlwise, K6, K2tog, K1, turn.

Row 6: Slip 1 purlwise, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.

Row 7: Slip 1 purlwise, K8, K2tog, turn.

Row 8: Slip 1 purlwise, P8, P2tog, turn. Ten heel stitches remain.


Set up: With free needle, knit first five heel stitches; this will now be N4 again.

Using free needle, knit 5 remaining heel stitches; this will be N1 again.

With the same needle (N1) pick up and knit 9 stitches along side of heel. When you reach the instep stitches, pick up one more stitch from the row below the first instep stitch (this will help prevent a hole where the heel joins the instep). Now you have 15 stitches on N1.

With another free needle, work first 9 instep stitches in 1x1 ribbing beginning with P1; this will be N2.

With another free needle, work remaining 9 instep stitches in 1x1 ribbing beginning with K1; this will be N3.

With another free needle, pick up one stitch from the row below the first instep stitch. With the same needle, pick up and knit 9 stitches along side of heel. Knit across remaining 5 heel stitches; total of 15 stitches on this last needle and it will be N4.

At this point, you should have 15 stitches on N1 and N4, and 9 stitches on N2 and N3.

Note: Bottom of heel and bottom of foot will be all knit stitches, but the instep stitches will continue to be worked in 1x1 ribbing until you reach the toe.

Shape Gusset

Round 1 (decrease): N1 knit to within last three stitches, K2tog, K1; N2 and N3 continue in 1x1 ribbing; N4 K1, ssk, knit remaining stitches.

Round 2: N1 knit all stitches, N2 and N3 work 1 x 1 ribbing, N4 knit all stitches.

Work these two rounds a total of 18 times, until you have a total of 36 stitches remaining (9 stitches on each needle).

Make Foot

Continue to knit all stitches on N1 and N4, and work 1x1 ribbing on N2 and N3 until foot measures total of 7 1/2" (from back of heel) or to desired length).

Toe Shaping

Round 1 (decrease): N1 knit to within last three stitches, K2tog, K1; N2 K1, ssk, knit to end of needle; N3 knit to within last three stitches, K2tog, K1; N4 K1, ssk, knit remaining stitches on needle.

Round 2: Knit all stitches on all needles.

Work these two rounds until six stitches remain on each needle (24 stitches total).

Continue to work only Round 1 (decrease) until three stitches remain on each needle (12 stitches total).


Knit stitches from N1 onto N4; six stitches will now be on N4. Slip stitches from N3 to N2. Now you will have six stitches on each of two needles.

Cut yarn, leaving a 12" tail.

Thread yarn into tapestry needle.

Slip first stitch on each needle onto tapestry needle, one after the other and remove them from the knitting needles. Pull tight.

Slip next first stitch from each needle onto tapestry needle, one after the other and remove from knitting needles. Pull tight.

Repeat this action until you have removed all stitches from the knitting needles and have secured them with the yarn tail. Pull all tight.

Using tapestry needle, pull yarn through tip of toe to inside of sock.

Turn sock inside out. Secure yarn, hide ends. Trim.

Pull any other yarn tails to inside of sock and secure, hiding ends. Trim all.

Repeat all of the above for second sock.

Wear them and enjoy some foot hugging, ankle cuddling luxury!

Knitted Tree dish cloth

Materials - 1 - 2 ounce ball worsted weight cotton yarn ( about 56 grams ), and 1 pr of knitting needles, US size 9

Gauge - 4 sts = 1 inch

Finished size - 9 ½ inches wide at bottom and 10 ½ tall.

Directions - Beginning at bottom of tree, cast on 39 sts. K 2 rows for foundation.
Start pattern -
Row 1- K 2, K 2 tog, K across row .
Row 2- K 2, P 2 tog, P across row to last 2 sts, K 2.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 more times , or total of 10 rows worked . ( 29 sts )
Row 11 - Cast on 4 sts at beginning of row, knit remaining sts.
Row 12 - Cast on 4 sts at beginning of next row, knit these 4 sts, purl across to last 4 sts, K 4.
Rows - 13- 22 - Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 10 rows. ( 27 sts )
Rows 23 - 24 - Repeat rows 11 and 12.
Rows 25 - 36- Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 12 rows. ( 25 sts )

Row 37 - Cast on 3 sts, knit across row.
Row 38 - Cast on 3 sts, knit these 3 sts, purl across to last 3 sts, K 3.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until there are 13 sts remaining. Starting on the Knit side, work as follows :
K 2, K 2 tog, K across to last 4 sts, K 2 tog, K 2.
Next row - K 2, P 2 tog, P across to last 4 sts, P 2 tog, P 2.
Next row - K 2, K 2 tog, K across to last 4 sts, K 2 tog, K 2.
Next row - K 2, P 2 tog, K 2 tog, K 1.
Last row - K 2 tog, K 1, K 2 tog. Bind off in knit st.

Pot holder

Pot Holder / Hot Pad
Lion Brand® Lion® Cotton

11 sts = 3"; 6 rows = 1". BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

Potholder is worked with 3 strands of yarn held together throughout. To use one ball, re-roll yarn into three separate balls. (If you hare making more than one potholder, you may find it easier to get three balls of Lion Cotton to eliminate the need to re-roll.)

KNITTED POTHOLDER: With three strands of yarn held together, cast on 28 sts. Work in garter st (= k every row) until 8" from beg. Bind off until one stitch remains. Knit that st, remove needle, insert crochet hook (ch 10, sl st to base st of ch) for loop. Fasten off.

Click for explanation and illustration
beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
k = knit sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)

hot pads

Easy-Going Pot Holders

by Valérie Colette Miller


Easy-Going Pot Holders

by Valérie Colette Miller


Easy-Going Pot Holders

by Valérie Colette Miller


Friday, December 26, 2008

Guy Scarf

New York Scarf: A Guy’s Woolie Warmer

[Note: For the matching hat pattern and a directory of other free knitting patterns I have designed click here.]


* 2 skiens Suri Merino from Plymouth Yarn Co. in color #402Firefly Hand Knits a New York Scarf for her Son
* 2 size U.S. 6 dpns or straight knitting needles
* Large tapestry needle
* Plenty of Love


Cast on 35 stitches.

Rows 1 and 2: Knit.

Row 3: *K3, P2*. Repeat from * to * across row.

Row 4: *K2, P3*. Repeat from * to * across row.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until scarf measures approximately 65 inches in length.

Knit 2 more rows.

Bind off.

Using the tapestry needle, weave ends of yarn into stitches securely.

Gently block scarf to measure four and one half inches across.Fireflys Christmas Amaryllis Opening

Wrap it up with love and send it to a guy you love to keep him nice and warm inside and out.

Hope you have a wonderful


Knit by Jeanne McCaffrey. One strand of worsted weight and one strand of sport weight was held together on size 15 US needles. About 10 ounces of yarn was used. Scarf measures 60 inches long.

You can knit a scarf any width and length you wish; a skinny scarf might be 3 inches wide, a warmer muffler type of scarf 8 inches wide.

Use any yarn desire and needles appropriate to the weight of the yarn. Stitches per inch x desired width=number of sts to CO


The stitches are decreased on Row 2 and then increased back to the original number on Row 3. Be sure you end with Row 3 completed. A selvedge stitch is needed on each side to work this pattern stitch. Slip the first stitch and knit the last stitch of every row, working pattern on remaining stitches. The pattern is reversible.

CO any even number of stitches.

Row 1: p
Row 2 k2tog across
Row 3 *k1, m1; rep from *
Rep Rows 1 - 3 until desired length.


See Abbreviations and the Glossary for help.


Knitting Patterns For Beginners: Easy Scarf

Knitting Patterns For Beginners: Easy Scarf

This scarf is reversible. It uses a lovely and very old traditional lace stitch called Faggot Stitch.

About 6 inches x 50 inches

About 3 sts=1" in pattern stitch

Materials Size 11 US (8 mm) needles
2 balls Cameo by Crystal Palace Yarns - #0211 Guacamole
80% merino wool/20% nylon
77 yards/50 grams

Knitting Patterns For Beginners: Easy Scarf See this listing for a shop near you.


CO 18 sts.
Row 1: *K1, YO, k2tog; rep from *
Rep Row 1 until you are almost out of yarn.

©Crystal Palace Yarns and used with their permission.

See Abbreviations and the Glossa

Sunday, December 14, 2008

how to seam

Finishing: Seams and Weaving Yarn Tails
While it may be tempting to hurry through the finishing so you can finally see the completed project, it's important not to rush through sewing the seams and weaving yarn tails if you want the end result to look polished and professional. Block each piece before assembling, and allow the pieces to dry. This helps the edges remain flat as you work.

Shoulder Seams (bound-off edges)

Step 1: Lay both pieces flat, with right sides facing up. Thread a yarn needle, and, beginning at the right-side edge of the piece closest to you (the lower piece), insert the needle from back to front through the center of the first stitch. Pull the yarn through, leaving a yarn tail to weave in later.

Step 2: Insert the needle from right to left under the two vertical legs of the first stitch on the piece farther from you (fig. 25a), then insert the needle from right to left under the next two vertical legs on the near piece, beginning in the same hole as the first stitch was made. Pull the yarn gently to adjust the stitch and close the stitches together.

Shoulder Seams: Figure 25a

Step 3: Continue to alternate sides, inserting the needle from right to left under two strands and beginning in the same hole as the last stitch was made. Pull the yarn every few stitches to adjust it and close the seam. At the end of the seam, weave in the yarn tail.

Mattress Stitch

Mattress stitch is a great stitch to know when it comes to sewing vertical seams, including side and sleeve seams.

Step 1: Thread a yarn needle with matching color yarn, leaving a four-inch tail to weave in later. With both pieces flat and right sides facing up, insert the needle under the horizontal strand between the first and second stitches of the first row on one piece and the corresponding strand on the second piece. Gently pull the yarn to tighten.

Step 2: Insert the needle under the horizontal strand on the next row of one piece, and then insert the needle under the strand on the same row of the other piece.

Step 3: Continue to work under the horizontal strands, alternating pieces, until you have six to eight rows worked (fig. 25b), and then pull the yarn gently to close the seam.

Mattress Stitch: Figure 25b

Step 4: Continue weaving together to the end of the seam. Weave yarn tails into the seam stitches, and secure.


Backstitch is an easy way to make a firm seam.

Step 1: Thread a tapestry needle with matching yarn. With right sides together, work along the wrong sides about one stitch in from the edges. Work two running stitches on top of each other to secure the lower edges (fig. 26a).

Backstitch: Figure 26a

Step 2: With the needle and yarn behind the work, insert the needle through both layers of fabric about two stitches to the left of the running stitch and pull the yarn to the front of the work.

Step 3: Insert the needle from front to back one stitch back to the right, working through both layers.

Step 4: Moving forward to the left about two stitches, bring the needle to the front of the work, about one stitch ahead of the original stitch. Repeat the process until you reach the end of the seam, working one stitch backward (to the right) on the front side of the work and two stitches forward (to the left) on the back side of the work.

Step 5: Finish the seam by working two or three running stitches on top of each other, stitching over the bound-off edges. Weave in yarn tails.

Three-Needle Bind-off

This bind-off finishes off two edges, binding off the stitches and closing the seam at the same time. Normally used to close shoulders, it can also be used to close side seams when working a garment from side to side. You can also pick up stitches along two side edges and then use the three-needle bind-off to close those seams. To make a flat, neat seam on the right side, follow these instructions.

Step 1: With the right sides of the work together, and with the needle tips aligned and facing to the right (fig. 27a), hold both needles in your left hand.

Three-Needle Bind-off: Figure 27a

Step 2: Insert the empty right-hand needle into the first stitch on each of the two needles in the left hand, and knit the two stitches together (fig. 27b). Slip them off the needle as you would a knit stitch. You now have one stitch on the right needle.

Three-Needle Bind-off: Figure 27b

Step 3: Knit the next pair of stitches the same way. You now have two stitches on the right needle.

Step 4: Pull the first stitch on the right-hand needle over the second stitch (the one closest to the tip), just as you would in a normal bind-off (fig. 27c).

Three-Needle Bind-off: Figure 27c

Step 5: Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all stitches have been bound off. Cut the yarn and pull the end through the last loop; weave in the end to secure.

Kitchener Stitch (or Grafting)

This technique joins live stitches together in an elastic, invisible seam. The method can also be used over bound-off stitches to make a strong, stable seam.

With an equal number of stitches on two needles, and right sides facing up, hold the needles parallel to each other with points facing right. Thread a blunt tapestry needle with two to three times the length of the area to be joined. For live stitches, work as follows:

Step 1: Insert threaded needle into the first stitch on the front needle purlwise (as if to purl); leave stitch on needle.

Step 2: Insert needle into the first stitch on the back needle knitwise (as if to knit); leave stitch on needle.

Step 3: Insert needle into the same first stitch on the front needle knitwise (fig. 28a); slip stitch off needle.

Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28a

Insert needle into the next front stitch purlwise; leave stitch on needle (fig. 28b).

Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28b

Step 4: Insert needle into the same stitch on the back needle purlwise (fig. 28c); slip stitch off needle.

Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28c

Insert needle into the next back stitch knitwise; leave stitch on needle (fig. 28d).

Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28d

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all stitches are worked.

Tip: To make the technique easier as you work, remember this...Front needle: purlwise leave on, knitwise take off. Back needle: knitwise leave on, purlwise take off.

Weaving in Yarn Tails

Carefully weaving in the yarn ends makes your knitting look neat and keeps it from pulling loose and unraveling over time.

Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail. Working on the wrong side of the knitting, weave the needle in and out of the back of the stitches for a few inches in one direction, and then turn and work in the opposite direction for an inch or two. Pull the yarn gently to tighten, and cut it close to the work. Stretch the knitting slightly so that the tail disappears into the last stitch.

Learn all about washing and blocking your knitted piece in the next section.

Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:

How to Knit
Free Baby Knitting Patterns
Free Clothing Knitting Patterns
Free Knitting Patterns for the Home
Free Accessory Knitting Patterns
Free and Easy Knitting Patterns
Free Knitting Patterns

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Knitting Instructions
Determining and Knitting Gauge
Knitting in the Round
Knitting Increases
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Special Knitting Stitches
Knitting Cables
Joining New Yarn
Knitting Buttonholes
Fixing Knitting Mistakes
Basic Crochet Stitches
Finishing: Picking Up Stitches
Finishing: Seams and Weaving Yarn Tails
Washing and Blocking Knitting
Felted Knitting
Standard Knitting Abbreviations
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how to seam


Favoroite boot slippers

These knit slippers use short rows for a much better fit than most slippers.

There are many variations possible. Knit them up in one color or use up your stash and knit in stripes.

They fit most woman. For babies use one strand of baby weight yarn and size 3 US needles. CO 44 sts and complete using the pattern below, but knit in garter stitch for only 1 inch.

14 sts=4"

One strand of bulky weight yarn or two strands of worsted weight held together
Size 9 US (5.5 mm) needles


CO 48 sts.
P every row in garter stitch for 2 inches (approx 12 rows). End with WS facing you (your choice as to which side will be the WS).
Introduce second color (if desired) and P across row.
K next row, then P next row.
With RS facing, begin first set of decreasing row as follows:

Dec Row Part 1: K18, k2tog 3 times, place marker to designate middle of slipper, k2tog 3 times, K1, turn (turn work around so you are now on the WS or purl side of the slipper).
Dec Row Part 2: P8, turn (turn work around again to RS or knit side of work).
Dec Row Part 3: K8 (you will see a gap), pick up the base of the right needle's last K st and add it to the left needle, now knit the st to the left of this new st with the newly placed st together (this decreases the st you just added, but also fills in the hole that would have been created by the gap). K across remaining sts.

This is the same as Make One (M1) except you are using the wrap at the base of the last K st on the right needle and not picking up a st between the left and right needle. Sounds complicated, but just give it a try. It's not necessary and if you want to skip this step you can. You will have a slight hole on the left side of the slipper for each dec row however.
Next Row: Purl

Repeat the 3 part Dec Row and purl row 3 times more, knitting across to 6 sts before marker, changing colors as desired.

On last Dec Row, inc 1 st at the beginning and end as follows to allow for a larger cuff:

Last Dec Row: K1, inc 1 (k in front and back of next st) to avoid a gap, do the Dec Row as above by knitting to within 6 sts of marker and k2tog 3 times, slip marker, k2tog 3 times, k1, turn.

When you have finished all 3 parts of the last Dec Row, then p1, inc 1 (P in front and back of next st), p across remaining sts (26 sts).

Begin Ribbing:
K1, p1 loosely across for 12 Rows. Bind off loosely.

Sew up cuff, heel, and foot.

If you want you can spray the bottom of the slippers with any nonskid spray that is washable for better traction.

See Abbreviations and the Glossary for help.

Clog Slippers

Yarn: Use two strands of 4 ply worsted weight yarn. I'm not sure how much it takes as I bought 170 g skeins and had plenty of yarn leftover. I knit these slippers in two colors. Black for the sole and light blue for the rest of the slipper. You can make them all one color if you want.
Needles: Two 5mm needles. I used circular needles as I find them easier to work with. I used them the same way I would use the two long 5mm needles. But if you prefer using the two long needles, by all means do so.

SIZE: These will fit a foot of 9 1/2 inches. For every 1/2 inch larger add 4 stitches when you cast on. For every 1/2 inch smaller subtract 4 stitches when you cast on. I will have notes in blue on the pattern for where to add or subtract stitches for the different sizes. It will be listed as (S, L) - meaning Small size which is 1/2 inch smaller and L meaning 1/2 inch larger. For even smaller and larger sizes, just add or subtract sts from those sizes. Please note: I have not tried to make these in different sizes. I am only going by my gauge, I think it should work out.

Gauge: 4 sts = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
st - Stitch
K - Knit
P - Purl
K2tog - Knit 2 stitches together
P2tog - Purl 2 stitches together
inc st - Increase stitch. (I did my increases by picking up a loop between the stitches and putting it on my left needle, then knitting it.)

This pattern is worked in rows. When completed you will sew up the sole and the back of heel seam.

Important: The slippers are folded in half lengthwise when you are finished, so that is why the sole seems big at the start. Just continue working the pattern and when you get to the "Sides and Top", you will notice it taking shape and see where you sew the bottom seam and back of heel seam.

SOLE Of the Slipper:
Working with two strands of yarn held together, Cast on 52 sts. (48, 56)
Rows 1, 2 - K
Row 3 - K1, inc. st, K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K2, inc. st., K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K1 - (56 sts) (52, 60)
Rows 4, 5 - K
Row 6 - K1, inc. st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K2, inc st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K1 - (60 sts) (56, 64)
Rows 7, 8 - K
Row 9 - K1, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K2, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K1 - (64 sts) (60, 68)
Rows 10, 11 - K
Row 12 - K1, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K2, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K1 - (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 13 - K33 (29, 37), inc st, K2, inc st, K33 (29, 37) - (70 sts) (66, 74)

SIDES and TOP of the slipper:
Change colors here if you are using two colors.
Rows 14, 15, 16, 17 - K
Row 18 - K31 (29, 33), K2tog, K4, K2tog , K31 (29, 33) - (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 19 - K30 (28, 32), K2tog, P4, K2tog, K30 (28, 32) - (66 sts) (62, 70)
Row 20 - K28 (26, 30), K2tog, K6, K2tog, K28 (26, 30) - (64 sts) (60, 68)
Row 21 - K27 (25, 29), K2tog, P6, K2tog, K27 (25, 29) - (62 sts) (58, 66)
Row 22 - K25 (23, 27), K2tog, K8, K2tog, K25 (23, 27) - (60 sts) (56, 64)
Row 23 - K24 (22, 26), K2tog, P8, K2tog, K24 (22, 26) - (58 sts) (54, 62)
Row 24 - K22 (20, 24), K2tog, K10, K2tog, K22 (20, 24) - (56 sts) (52, 60)
Row 25 - K21 (19, 23), K2tog, P10, K2tog, K21 (19, 23) - (54 sts) (50, 58)
Row 26 - K19 (17, 21), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K19 (17, 21) - (52 sts) (48, 56)
Row 27 - K18 (16, 20), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K18 (16, 20) - (50 sts) (46, 54)
Row 28 - K17 (15, 19), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K17 (15, 19) - (48 sts) (44, 52)
Row 29 - K16 (14, 18), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K16 (14, 18) - (46 sts) (42, 50)
Row 30 - K1, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K5, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K1 - (41 sts) (37, 45)
Row 31 - K13 (11, 15), K2tog, K11, K2tog, K13 (11, 15) - (39 sts) (35, 43)
Cast off. Sew up seams.

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Thursday, December 11, 2008

Fancy thumbless baby mittens

Baby Mittens, Infants to 6 Months and 1 Year Old
Printer-friendly versionThis free pattern originally published by Nomis Yarn Company, Volume 21, in 1948.

Buy the digitally restored eBook for $2.49.



YARN: 2-ounces of Knitting Worsted or 2 ounces of Germantown.

NEEDLES: 1-pr. #3 Single Pointed.

RIGHT MITTEN: Starting at the cuff, cast on 32 sts and work in the following pattern for the cuff.

1st row-K 1, p 2, * k 3, p 2, k 1, p 2, repeat from * twice more; k 3, p 2.

2nd row-K 2, p 3, * k 2, p 1, k 2, p 3, repeat from * twice more; k 2, p 1.

3rd row-K 1, p 2, * knit the 3rd knit st from the front of the needle and do not slip off the needle; k the first skipped st and slip off the needle; knit the 2nd skipped stitch and slip off the needle and slip the 3rd stitch off the needle (cable); p 2, k 1, p 2, repeat from * twice more, end with cable, p 2.

4th row-Repeat row 2. Repeat these 4 rows for the pattern until you have 4 cable twists; ending with row 3.

NEXT ROW-Purl across the row, decreasing 3 sts evenly spaced apart.

BEADING ROW: K 1 st, * yarn over, k 2 sts together, repeat from * across the row. Now work in stockinette stitch (p 1 row, k 1 row) until the piece measures 2 ¼ inches from the beading row; ending * with a purl row.

1st dec: * K 3 sts; k 2 sts together, repeat from * across the row ending with k 4. Purl across the next row.

2nd dec: * K 2 sts; k 2 sts together, repeat from * across the row. Purl back across the next row. Bind off all sts. Break the yarn leaving 10 inches. Fold the mitten in two. Sew across the tip and along the side of the mitten.

LEFT MITTEN: 1st row-P 2, * k 3, p 2, k 1, p 2, repeat from * twice more; end with k 3, p 2, k 1.

2nd row-P 1, k 2, * p 3, k 2, p 1, k 2, repeat from * twice more; end with p 3, k 2.

3rd row-As row 1 but cable on the 3 knit sts.

4th row-Repeat row 2.

Other great knitting patterns from 2 Needle Mittens, Volume 91:

Knitting Patterns

Fast baby mittens

Fast Baby Mittens
This is a great little pattern when you need to make a baby gift FAST! You’ll need a 50g skein of any sport- or DK-weight yarn and a set of US size 2 double-pointed needles.

Cast on 24 stitches. K2. P2 rib for 8 rows.

Change to Stockinette stitch and knit 24 rows.

Decrease for top as follows:

Row 1: K2, K2tog around.

Row 2: Knit.

Row 3: K1, K2tog around.

Row 4: K2tog around.

Break yarn and pass the end throught the remaining sts. Sew in ends. I highly recommend making some kind of cord to attach the two mittens. Either use a crochet chain or braid the yarn. I used to give these mittens away unattached until my mother found out and set me straight! ;-)

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern:
CO - Cast on

K - Knit

P - Purl

St st - Stockinette stitch

st/sts - stitch/stitches

tog - together (as in “K2tog”—knit two stitches together)

Easy Thumbless Mittens

By Lorri Ann R.

After I finished dying my recycled yarn with Kool Aid, I knit up some thumbless mittens for my 8 month old. There is nothing as frustrating as trying to fit a baby thumb into a mitten so I have skipped the thumb. I have written out the directions so that everyone can knit mittens for the babies in their lives.

Fits approximately 6 to 18 months.

50g worsted weight yarn (I used recycled yarn (11wpi) from a white thrift store sweater that I dyed with Berry Blue Kool Aid.)
Four size 3 double pointed needles (or size needed for gauge)
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle

20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch


Make 2:

Cast on 28 stitches loosely.

Arrange stitches evenly over 3 double pointed needles. Join into a circle being careful not to twist your work. Place marker at the beginning of the row.

Ribbing: *K2, P2*, 7 times.

Repeat ribbing row until ribbing measures 1 ½ inches.

Increase row: K next row across increasing 4 stitches evenly around. (32 stitches)

Stockinette stitch: Continue to K around until the stockinette stitch portion of the mitten measures 2 inches.

Next row: *K6, K2tog*, 4 times. (28 stitches)

Stockinette stitch: Continue to K around until the stockinette stitch portion of the mitten measures 3 inches.

Decrease as follows:
Row 1: *K5, K2tog*, 4 times. (24 stitches)
Row 2: K around.
Row 3: *K4, K2tog*, 4 times.
Row 4: K around.
Row 5: *K3, K2tog*, 4 times.
Row 6: *K2, K2tog*, 4 times.
Row 7: *K, K2tog*, 4 times.
Row 8: K2tog 4 times. (4 stitches)

Finishing: Cut yarn leaving a 10 inch tail. Thread yarn onto tapestry needle and sew through remaining 4 stitches 2 times. Tack tail on inside of mitten. Weave in ends.

K - knit
P - purl
K2tog - knit 2 together
Dec - decrease
Inc - increase
Wpi - wraps per inch

This pattern is for your personal use only. Please do not copy it, post it, or sell items made using pattern.

jack and jill mittens

Yarn: 100 grams heavy wool yarn 3ply; #4 double pointed needles

With two strands of yarn held together as one, cast on 24 sts. Join. Work in the round in *k1p1* ribbing for 5.5-6 cm. Continue in purl stitch for 4 cm. Place 6 sts on stitch holder (for the base of the thumb) and purl the remaining 18sts in the round for another 7cm. Cut yarn leaving a 15cm tail. Using a darning needle, run yarn through all 18sts and pull tight. You are left with a very nice looking ring of stitches which won’t be uncomfortable to the child’s fingers.
Pick up the 6 sts off st holder, then pick up 4-6 sts evenly around the hole for the thumb. Now, be careful. You don’t want the thumb to have an edge, so the sts you pick up must be purl. Then, purl in the round for 4 cm and close with the help of a darning needle as in the top of the mitten.
Clean the mittens of any loose threads by slipping the threads in between the stitches and turn the mittens inside out.
That way, the stocking stitch is on the right side of the mitten. Of course, if you find it easier, you can work in knit stitch instead of purl and when you finish it, you will have knitted it on the right side.
To make the brim of the hat: pick up 20-30sts from the round where the thumb hole leaves off and rib for 2-2.5cm *k1p1*

Jack & Jill baby mittens

Have fun. You will see that these mittens will bring a little happiness to you, too.
Embroidery: use different color yarns to make it. Free your imagination. They don’t have to be like the ones I suggest. Your imagination and love for your child can do miracles. But your work will be rewarded. Children don’t keep anything back and you will be able to see their joy when you give them their new mittens. Now that is a well-earned reward, isn’t it?

My experiences with my own daughter have taught me that even though children love their toys and clothes, it's easy to lose them. And they suffer sincerely. Well, even a heart of ice would be moved by such sorrow in the eyes of a child. And then, it’s back to the knitting needles to replace the lost mitten. Or, you can cleverly make a crochet chain with which to join the two mittens together. Just slip the chain through the sleeves of the child’s coat. That way the mittens will never be lost :-)

free patterns free p

thumbless mittens

the size - 0-3 months
the guage - 7 stitches and 10 rows = 1 inch
the materials
set of 4 size 2 double pointed needles
size D crochet hook
2 balls of worsted weight yarn in contrasting colors
(I used some leftover Patons Classic Merino Wool in Rich Red and Royal Purple)
the pattern
Mitten (make 2):
You can use any color pattern you like. For the purple/red mittens I alternated 3 rows of red and 6 rows or purple.
Cast on 30 stitches, distribute the stitches equally across 3 of the dpns
Round 1: Place stitch marker, join stitches, being careful not to twist. Begin a 1x1 rib (*k1, p1, repeat from * to marker).
Round 2-9: Continue 1x1 rib.
Round 10: k all stitches.
Round 11: *k1, m1, k8, repeat from * (33 sts)
Round 12-13: k
Round 14: *k1, m1, k9, repeat from * (36 sts)
Round 15-16: k
Round 17: *k1, m1, k10, repeat from * (39 sts)
Round 18-23: k
Round 24: *k1, m1, k11, repeat from * (42 sts)
Round 25-26: k
Round 27: *k5, k2tog, repeat from * (36 sts)
Round 28: k
Round 29: *k4, k2tog, repeat from * (30 sts)
Round 30: k
Round 31: *k3, k2tog, repeat from * (24 sts)
Round 32: k
Round 33: *k2, k2tog, repeat from * (18 sts)
Round 34: k
Round 35: *k1, k2tog, repeat from * (12 sts)
Round 36: k2tog across
Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Draw tail through remaining sts and tie off. Weave in ends
Make tie with color A and crochet hook:
Row 1: ch 37, sc in mitt in the middle of the 1x1 rib, ch 37 turn
Row 2: sc 37, sc in mitt next to other scin the 1x1 rib, sc 37. Cut yarn and draw through last stitch. Weave in ends
Tags : completedproject pattern mittens baby
Responses[1] Posted by Jessica on February 12, 2008 8:47:27 PM EST #

Reply Re: Striped Baby Mittens
Comment from Anonymous on October 24, 2008 12:05:44 PM EDT #
I love the pattern - I was searching for baby mittens with worsted weight yarn knitted in the round to match a hat, and this was perfect!

I just wondered if there is a mistake in the pattern though, I think it should be:

Round 11: k1, m1, k9, repeat from * (33 sts)

Round 14: k1, m1, k10, repeat from * (36 sts)

Round 17: k1, m1, k11, repeat from * (39 sts)

Round 24: k1, m1, k12, repeat from * (42 sts)

Otherwise the finished mittens are lovely.

Best regards, Helen

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

cute mittens

When it’s late at night and the cold winds blow, you’ll be glad you made these toasty mittens. Knit in the round with thick worsted wool, this project is a good one to try after mastering the Sculpted Hat. (In fact, the leftover yarn from the hat will make a whole pair of mittens.) This pattern fits an average woman’s hand if you tend to knit tightly. For loose knitters or smaller hands, use size 3 and 4 double pointed needle instead. To create a larger mitten, move up a size or two with your needles.
1 skein (4 ounces) acrylic or wool worsted yarn
4 size 4 double-pointed needles
4 size 5 double-pointed needles
2 stitch markers
Stitch holder
Yarn needle
Row counter (optional)
Casting on
Knitting in the round
Rib stitch
Stockinette stitch
Picking up stitches
Weaving in loose ends


for the hand:

1. Cast 36 stitches on a size 4 double-pointed needle. Divide the stitches among 3 of the needles, 12 stitches per needle. You will be using the fourth needle to knit with.
2. Join the stitches into a circle and work 22 rounds in knit 2, purl 2 ribbing. This is the ribbed cuff.
3. Round 23: Work in stockinette stitch (knit only, since you’re working in the round). Switch to the size 5 needles by substituting a 5 for a 4 as you knit around. Set the size 4 needles aside.
4. Knit 1 more round (for a total of 2 rounds on the number 5 needles). You will now begin to increase to match the shape of the hand and to create the thumb gusset.
5. Knit 1 stitch and place one of the stitch markers immediately after it. Increase 1 by knitting through the front and the back of the next stitch, then knit 1. Place the second marker. There are now 3 stitches between the markers. Increase 1, then knit to the end of the round.
6. Knit 2 rounds, slipping the markers from your left to right needle as you go.
7. Knit 1, slip the marker to your right needle, increase 1, knit 1, increase 1. There are 5 stiches between the markers. Knit to the end of the round, and knit 2 more rounds.
8. Repeat step 7, increasing after the first marker and before the second one until you have 13 stiches between the markers. (Knit the additional 2 rounds after each increase round.)
9. Knit 1 stitch as if you were starting a new round, then take the first marker off and slide the 13 stiches off the needle and onto the stitch holder. You will use these stitches later to create the thumb.
10. Knit 25 rounds.
11. Begin decreasing for the mitten tip. For the next 4 rounds, knit 4 stitches and then knit 2 together, repeating throughout the round.
12. For the last 2 rounds, knit 3 stitches, and then knit 2 together, repeating throughout the round.
13. Cut a 12-inch tail and use your yarn needle to draw the tail through the remaining stitches. Pull the yarn tight, knot to secure, and weave in the ends.

for the thumb:

1. Slip the 13 reserved stitches from the stitch holder onto 2 size 5 needles, placing 7 stitches on one needle and 6 on the other.
2. Using a third size 7 needle, pick up 3 stitches in the space between the first 2 needles to form a triangle.
3. Starting on the right side of the third needle, knit a round, leaving an 8-inch tail to weave in later.
4. Knit 14 more rounds.
5. Begin decreasing to create the thumb tip. For 1 round, knit 1 stitch and then knit 2 together, repeating throughout.
6. For the final round, knit 2 together throughout.
7. Cut an 8-inch tail and use your yarn needle to draw the yarn through the remaining stitches. Pull it tight, knot to secure, and weave in and trim the ends. Gently tighten the tail at the base of the thumb and weave it in.
8. Repeat steps from casting on for the hand to make the second mitten!

improvisation idea: Choose 3 different colors and switch to another one every 10 rows.

more projects

Ear flap hats


Size: approx 6-18 mo (2-3 years)
Yarn: 6-18 mo size: For boy: Lana Grossa Easy Prints, color olive, dark gray, cream mix, (100% merino wool), bulky weight, 55 yards per 50 gram skein For girl: Lion Brand Landscapes, color Rose Garden, (50% acrylic, 50% wool), super bulky weight, 55 yards/7.75 oz per skein. 2-4 year size, Lornas Laces Shepherd Worsted (three strands held together), color Lakeview, (100% wool), worsted weight, 225 yards per 114 gram skein
Quantity: about 1.5 skeins of the bulky weight (I think) and 1 skein of the worsted weight (cut into thirds and three stands held together). (note: I could have used a smidge more of the worsted, and made my ties shorter, to compensate).
Needles: Clover Bamboo 16” circular size 10 and dpn size 10 and 7
Gauge: 3 st/inch
Started/finished: Approximately three hours to knit this hat
Washing Instructions: Hand wash and lay flat to dry (the Easy Print yarn is machine washable, but when I did that with my first hat, the pom-pom semi-felted into a ball – okay if it is the look you want)

Note: directions given first are for the boy version, girl version follow in [brackets]. directions for smaller size are also given first, followed by the larger size in (italics)

Also, please note that I am pretty sure my daughter has a smallish head. You might need to add more length before starting the decreases. Knit hat body:

Using long-tail cast on method, cast on 50 st (60 stitches)
Place a marker and join, being careful not to twist the stitches
Knit ¾” (1”) garter [seed] stitch.
Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and knit even until hat measures 3 ¾” (4”) from cast on edge.
*Knit 8 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 7 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row (you will probably need to switch to size 10 dpn at this point)
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 6 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 5 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 4 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 3 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
use darning needle to weave yarn end through the live stitches and pull tight
make a pom-pom, attach to top of hat and weave in all ends
Add earflaps:

Fold hat in half and place a removable marker at the halfway points at the cast on edge.
You can either place the earflaps an equal distance apart, or you can place them slightly closer together on one side so there is a more clear “front” and “back”. To make them off center: count 4 stitches over from one marker and pick up 12 (14) stitches. If picking up stitches on a garter stitch border, pick up from the outside of the hat (put your needles in from the outside and pull the yarn through from the inside), and pick up slightly above the cast on edge (about a stitch higher than you normally would pick up from). [If picking up from a seed stitch border, pick up from the INSIDE of the hat.] These tricks will help make a more uniform look at the attachment point of the earflap.
knit 2 (3) rows even [or knit seed stitch for 2 (3) rows even]
k 2tog, k8 (10) st, k2tog [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary]
k even [or knit seed stitch]
k2tog, k6 (8) st, k2tog [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary]
k even [or knit seed stitch]
k2tog, k4 (6), k2tog [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary]
k2tob, k2 (4), k2tog [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary]
k2tog, (k2) k2tog, [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary] 2 (4) st left at end of this row. For smaller size only, skip to step 12.
For larger size only: k2tog, k2tog. 2 stitches left at end of this row.
switch to size 7 dpn and knit 10 inches of I-cord
bind off
Repeat steps 1-12 on the other side of the hat, remembering to place the earflap slightly off-center (if you did so on the first side).
weave in all ends.

Monday, December 8, 2008


Knitting at KNoon Designs - Kathy's Mittens

© Chris de Longpré, Knitting At KNoon Designs, 2001, All Rights Reserved
Free Pattern - Not for Resale
This pattern may be reproduced only for personal reference. Copyright information must remain intact.

I designed these mittens for my sister, Kathy, who was learning to knit and wanted to be able to knit perfect mittens. With two little tykes and a teenager, she is one busy Mom, so these work up quickly. These easy mittens are great to make for little ones, because there is no "right" or "left" hand. Sizes fit infant (thumb-less version), toddler (S), pre-school (M), kinder-garten (L).

Yarn - Worsted weight yarn. A great project for using up left-overs, or purchase a ball of really yummy yarn that you love! Approximately 75 (S) to 150 (L) yards needed for each pair including the I-cord.

Needles - Straight needles, size 5 (3.25mm) and 7 (4.5mm), or size to obtain gauge; two double-point needles, size 5 (3.25mm), for I-cord

Other - Small stitch holder, preferably the kind that opens at both ends (or use waste yarn); tapestry needle.

Gauge: 16 stitches and 24 rows = 4" in stockinet stitch on larger needles.

1) Instructions are given for size small with changes for sizes (medium, large) given in parentheses. If only one number is given, it is for all sizes.

With smaller needles, cast on 24 (28, 32) stitches.
Work 8 (10, 12) rows in k1p1 ribbing.
Switch to larger needles and knit 1 row. Purl 1 row.
Repeat these two rows 0 (2, 2) times more.
For thumb-less, infant version, work even in stockinet stitch until piece measures 4-1/4" from beginning; go to "Shape Top."
For S (M, L), continue as follows:
Knit 11 (13, 15); knit in front and back loops (kfb) in each of next 2 stitches, knit to end [26 (30, 34) sts].
Purl 1 row.
Knit 11 (13, 15); kfb; knit 2; kfb; knit to end [28 (32, 36) sts].
Purl 1 row.
Knit 11 (13, 15); kfb; knit 4; kfb; knit to end [30 (34, 38) sts].
Purl 1 row.

Thumb: For base of thumb, work 2 (4, 6) more rows in stockinet stitch. Next row: Knit 11 (13, 15); kfb; k6; kfb; with right side facing, slip remaining stitches to a double-ended stitch holder or thread them on waste yarn in a contrasting color. Turn. Purl across 10 stitches of thumb; turn. Continue working thumb, ignoring the first 11 (13, 15) stitches on the needle, in stockinet stitch for 1" (1-1/4", 1-1/2") - or long enough for your child's thumb. Next row: knit 2 together (k2tog) 5 times. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. With tapestry needle, thread this tail through the remaining thumb stitches and pull up tightly, fasten. Sew the inside thumb seam. Secure and weave in end.

Body of Mitten: With right side facing and end of yarn from ball behind work, use the end of the needle with remaining live hand stitches and pick up and knit one stitch on the right side of thumb, 1 st at the base of the thumb, and 1 st on the left side of thumb. With the inside of the mitten facing, slip the stitches from the stitch holder back onto the free needle. Turn work and knit these remaining stitches. Next row: Purl 11 (13, 15), p2tog, purl to end. Work even in stockinet stitch until piece measures 4-1/4" (5-3/4", 6-1/2") from beginning - or is long enough for your child's hand.

Shape Top:
*knit 2, k2tog*; repeat from *.
Purl 1 row.
*knit 1, k2tog*; repeat from *.
Purl 1 row.
k2tog, across.

Cut yarn, leaving long tail. With tapestry needle, thread this tail through the remaining stitches and pull up tightly, fasten. Sew side seam. Weave in ends. Make a second mitten the same as the first.

With the coat or jacket on a hanger (or your child!) hang a tape measure through the sleeves to determine the required length for the I-cord. Work I-cord(on-site demo)and attach securely to mitten cuffs at side seams. Block lightly if desired.

Unsure about a technique used in this pattern? Visit www.KnittingAtKNoon.com for free on-line video demonstrations of techniques used in this, and other, Knitting At KNoon patterns.

Baby Thumbless mittens

Thumbless Mitten for Toddlers
This is my first shared pattern. My daughter has a little pair of mittens that she loves, and I looked at them and said 'I could make something like that'. So this is the result. I have also done a version in the round, but haven't typed it up yet. It's been tested by a novice knitter friend of mine(I taught her:-).
I used Red Heart--fun colours and washable.
size 6 or 7 needle, or whatever gives you the gauge


gauge: 4 stitches to the inch (worsted weight yarn)

cast on 28 stitches
work 6 rows of garter stitch (knit every row)
change to stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl the next row)
continue until piece is approx. 3 1/4" (about 27 rows)

Stop such that the next row will be a purl row.

Begin decrease section:

*Purl 2 together, purl 2, repeat from * to end of row
*Knit 2 together, knit 2, repeat from * to end of row
*Knit 2 together, knit 2, repeat from * to end of row
*Knit 2 together, knit 2, repeat from * to end of row
You should have 9 stitches.

Cut the yarn, leaving enough to sew up the seam.
Run the yarn through the stitches and draw up tight.
Sew up the seam starting at the top.
Weave in the ends.

Make another the same way.

Baby Mittens

Crystal Palace Yarns
free knitting pattern for baby - toddler mittens in Superwash Merino 5

These mittens are meant to
coordinate with the Merino 5
Baby - Toddler Vest
knit either solid color or in 2-colors.
(see the Toddler Vest pattern HERE)

Merino 5 Superwash 100% merino wool
Baby - Toddler Mittens

12 –18 months (2-3 years)

Two Color Version: 1 - 50 gr ball Crystal Palace Merino 5 (MC)
1 - 50 gr balls Merino 5 (CC)
Solid Color version: 1 - 50 gr ball Merino 5
Crystal Palace Bamboo or DAISY Needles: US 7 size (5.5 mm)
Crochet Hook size G

Beg-begin (ning), CO-cast on; Cont-continue; Dec-decrease; K-knit; K2tog-knit 2 stitches together; P-purl; rem-remain(ing); rep-repeat; RS-right side; St(s)-stitch (es); St st-Stockinette stitch; WS-wrong side.

Gauge: 20 sts and 24 rows = 4” in St St.
For correct sizing, be sure to do a gauge swatch.

Right Hand
Using CC, CO 26 (30) sts. Work 2 rows K2, P2 rib. Change to MC. Work 6 (8) rows K2, P2 rib.
Cont to use MC. Work in St st until piece measures 2 (2 1/2)” from CO.
Shape for Thumb
K 18 (20) sts, turn. CO 5 sts, P10, turn. Work these 10 sts in St st for 1.5 ”, end after working P row. Next row K2tog across — 5 sts. Break off yarn, thread through rem sts, pull up & secure. Join seam along 1.5” side.
RS facing rejoin yarn to base of thumb, pick up & knit 5 sts from base, then K across rem 8 (10) sts — 26 (30) sts.
Cont in St st until piece measures 3.5 (4)” from CO edge end after working a P row.
Shape Top
Row 1: K3(2), K2tog, [K4, K2tog] 3(4) times; *K3(2) — 22(26) sts.
Rows 2 and 4: Purl.
Row 3: K5(4), K2tog, [K3, K2tog] 2(3) times; K5 — 19(22) sts.
Row 5: [K2, K2tog] 3 times, K1, K2tog; [K2, K2tog], 2 times; K2 — 14(16) sts.
Break off yarn thread through rem 14(16) sts, pull up and secure. Sew Seam. Work in all ends.
Left Hand
Using CC, CO 26(30) sts. Work 2 rows K2, P2 rib. Change to MC. Work 6(8) rows K2, P2 rib.
Cont to use MC. Work in St st until piece measures 2 (2.5)” from CO.
Shape for Thumb
Knit 15(17) sts, turn. CO 5 sts, P10, turn. Working on these 10 sts in St st for 1.5” end after working a P row. Next row K2 tog across — 5 sts. Break off yarn, thread through rem sts, pull up & secure. Join seam along the 1.5” side.
RS facing rejoin yarn to base of thumb, pick up & K 5 sts from base, then K across rem 11(13) sts — 26(30) sts.
Continue in St st until piece measures 3.5(4)” from CO edge end after working a P row.
Shape Top Shape Top
Row 1: K3(2), K2tog, [K4, K2tog] 3(4) times; *K3(2) — 22(26) sts.
Rows 2 & 4: Purl.
Row 3: K5(4), K2tog, [K3, K2tog] 2(3) times; K5 — 19(22) sts.
Row 5: [K2, K2tog] 3 times, K1, K2tog, [K2, K2tog] 2 times; K2 — 14(16) sts.
Break off yarn thread through rem 14(16) sts, pull up & secure. Sew seam. Work in all ends.
Connecting Cord
Using CC and crochet hook join yarn at inside seam of one mitten. Chain for approximately 40 (43)” or desired length. Fasten off & join to inside seam of other mitten.

Pattern Technical Editing & Sizing by Dawn Leeseman for Crystal Palace Yarns

copyright 2007 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. - We are happy to share this pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format without permission. Knitting Shops carrying Crystal Palace Yarns Merino 5 are welcome to use this free pattern for their customers.

Crystal Palace Yarns, Richmond, CA 94804
phone: 510-237-9988, fax: 510-237-9809

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Friday, December 5, 2008

ski hat with ear flaps

This hat was knit in the round top-down. I prefer to make all hats from top to bottom, because I think it's easier to get the sizing right. Just try it on as you go!

Main Color (mc) ~75 yards grey worsted weight - I used GGH Savanna in Galaxy
Contrast Color (cc) ~20 yards white worsted weight - I used GGH Savanna in White
Contrast Color 2 (cc2) ~20 yards black lighter worsted weight - I used Lavish 100% alpaca
Size 7 double pointed needles (DPNs)
Size G or H crochet hook
Using the mc, cast on 2 stitches on two of the DPNs. (4 total)
Row 1: Join. K
Row 2: M1 (8 total). Spread the stitches across 4 dpns, so you have two stitches on each needle.
Row 3: K
Row 4: *K1 M1 rep from * (16 total)
Row 5: K
Row 6: *K2 M1 rep from * (24 total)
Row 7: K
Row 8: *K3 M1 rep from * (32 total)
Row 9: K
Row 10: *K4 M1 rep from * (40 total)
Row 11: K
Row 12: *K5 M1 rep from * (48 total)
Row 13: K
Row 14: *K6 M1 rep from * (56 total)
Row 15: K
Row 16: *K7 M1 rep from * (64 total)
Row 17: K
Row 18: *K8 M1 rep from * (72 total)
Row 19: K
Row 20: *K9 M1 rep from * (80 total)
Rows 21-35: St st
Switch to cc. Rows 36-38 st st
Rows 39-42: *3P 1K rep from *
Rows 43-45: K
Switch to mc. Rows 46-55: K
Row 56:K30 BO20 K30 (60 total) The bound off part will be the front of the hat. You will no longer work in the round. You can put away one of the DPNs if it's more comfortable for you.
Row 57: K2tog K56 K2tog (58 total)
Row 58: P
Row 59: K2tog K54 K2tog (56 total)
Row 60: P14 BO28 P14 The bound off portion is the back of the hat. The 14 st sections will each become an ear flap.
Ear Flaps
Repeat the following on both 14 st sections of live stitches.

Row 61: P
Row 62: K2tog K10 K2tog (12 total)
Row 63: P
Row 64: K2tog K8 K2tog (10 total)
Row 65: P
Row 66: K2tog K6 K2tog (8 total)
Row 67: P
Row 68: K2tog K4 K2tog (6 total)
Row 69: P
*K2tog rep from * (3 total)
Sl1 K2tog PSSO (1 left)
Cut tail and pull it through the final stitch so it won't unravel (you could bind off too, but it's easier just to pull it through). Either weave in end or work in into the ties.
Trim and Finishing
Switch to cc2 and single crochet around the edge.
Weave in ends.
The ties are braids. Cut long (about 2.5 times the length you want) pieces of whichever colors you'd like. You want three strands. Pull the strands through the bottom of each ear flap. Divide the ends into 3 groups of 2 (you use both ends from one strand), and braid.
You can attach pom poms to the end of you like. If you wanted it to be super warm, you could also line it with fleece.

Rice stitch scarf

This is a a super easy to make scarf that is really classic for fall. It is a Rice stitch which is now my new favorite stitch (It used to be a seed stitch). I made this scarf with a baby alpaca yarn but any chunky yarn will work. The key is to make this very long so that you can wrap it around your neck and still have some length to it. I made mine about 90″ long. I named it after one of my favorite clothing lines, because it seemed like it would be the perfect acessory for her clothes.
Eileen Scarf Pattern:
You will need 2-3 skeins of a chunky yarn with a guage of 3 stitches per inch on #11 US needles.
Cast on 22 stitches.
Row 1: K1, P1 across.
Row 2: Knit across.
Repeat pattern until you have your desired length, then add fringe into every other stitch all the way around the scarf. You will need about 1/4 of a skein for the fringe.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

knitting socks


knitting socks


Sock patterns and help


Easy sock pattern

One of my favourite things to knit is socks. They are quick, useful, and (contrary to popular belief) very easy to do!

New! Visit Socks 101 for step-by-step photo instructions!
I have several pattern books with different varieties of socks, but during the past few years they have all evolved into a generic sock pattern that I like. (Original pattern was a Patons hiking sock.)

Mostly I knit using worsted weight yarn: pure wool, or a blend of wool/acrylic. I have patterns for chunky weight socks, but found they are too bulky to wear comfortably with boots or shoes (other than big clunky winter boots ... more as a boot liner than a sock).

*New* - since I've written these pages, I've been knitting almost exclusively with sock weight yarn, 75% wool/25% nylon blend, on 2.25 mm needles for a gauge of 9 stitches per inch. I love how the socks turn out.
Here is a link to a huge list of sock patterns available online. It's housed on the Socknitters home page. There are patterns for all sizes and all yarn weights there.

(This pattern assumes you know basic knitting techniques and abbreviations. This is for worsted weight yarn and is a good beginning project to see how socks are constructed.)

The Super Simple Knitwit Sock Pattern
YARN: worsted weight.

GAUGE: 20 st and 26 rows = 4 inches with 4 mm needles in stocking stitch.

NEEDLES: Set of four double-pointed needles. I like to use 3.75 mm needles; I find the 4 mm make too loose a fabric. For the smaller size, you can also use 3.5 mm needles just as well for a tightly knit, durable sock.


Small/Medium (finished foot 8.5 to 9.5 inches in length)

Large/Extra Large (finished foot 10.5 to 11.5 inches in length)

These sizes are guides only; I recommend measuring the person's foot, or if you know their shoe size, there is a chart here that shows approximate shoe size/sock length ratio. Simply knit the foot as long as you need it.

Sizes are shown small/medium (large/extra large) in the pattern.

Cast on 40(44) stitches. Divide on three needles: 13(14) on first two needles, 14(16) on the last. Join and knit the first round.

RIBBING: You can make a "knit one-purl one" ribbing, or also can make a "knit two-purl two" ribbing. I find the k1p1 ribbing for 1.5 inches is good. It's stretchy enough, but still holds the top of the sock up.

LEG: There are many variations I use for the leg of the sock. You can continue in your ribbing (either k1-p1 or k2-p2) or you can change to a k3-p1 ribbing -- looks very nice when done. Or you can switch to stocking stitch, knitting every stitch. Continue with the leg to desired length, 7(8) inches seems good.

Make the HEEL FLAP:

Divide the stitches in two -- you will have to move some stitches from the second needle onto the third to make it add up to half of the total stitches. Then take the rest of the stitches from the second needle and place on the first needle. This needle will not be worked until after you turn the heel. You will now have your 'active' needle with yarn attached and 20(22) stitches.

With the wrong side facing you (i.e. as if to purl) begin the heel flap:

Slip 1, then purl across; TURN;

Slip 1, knit 1 (repeat across, sl1-k1); TURN;

Continue these two rows until heel flap measures 2.5 (3) inches. End on a second row (so that the purl side is facing for the next row.) The slipped stitches at the beginning of each row form little 'loops' that make it easy when you need to pick up stitches later.

TURN THE HEEL: (really, this is easy -- just follow the directions and don't worry about having stitches left on the needle every time you turn the work.)

1st row: purl 13(14), p 2 tog. P1; TURN;

2nd row: slip 1, K7, slip 1, K1, psso, K1; TURN;

3rd row: slip 1, P8, p2Tog; p1; TURN;

4th row: slip 1, K9, slip 1, K1, psso, K1; TURN;

5th row: slip 1, P10, p2Tog; p1; TURN;

6th row: slip 1, K11, slip 1, K1, psso, K1; TURN;

You should now have 14(16) stitches on your needle. If you are making the S/M sock, you would be done turning the heel. If you are making L/XL, you will have 15 st. on one needle, and one stitch (the 16th) on the other needle. Proceed:


7th row: slip 1, P12, p2Tog; TURN; (there are no more stitches after the P2Tog)

8th row: slip 1, K12, slip 1, K1, psso; (you should now have 14 stitches on).

Have the right side of your work facing you. Now you are going to pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap. That is what the little "slipped stitch loops" are used for.

Pick up/knit 10(12) stitches along the left side of heel flap. With second needle, knit (or continue in your rib pattern if you wish to have the top of the sock ribbed all the way to the toe ... looks very nice when done ...) work across these 20(22) stitches. Then take your other free needle and pick up 10(12) stitches along the remaining side of heel flap. Now all four needles are in use. You have to knit 7 stitches from the heel flap needle onto your third needle (the one you just used to pick up the second set of stitches from heel flap). Then you will have to carefully transfer the remaining seven stitches from the heel flap needle onto your first needle. This frees up that (heel flap) needle so you can continue to work.

Your 54(60) stitches should now be divided as follows: ( the starting point of the round is now the middle of the heel)

First needle, 17(19) st; second needle (across top of foot) 20(22) st; third needle, 17(19) st. You need to decrease now so the foot after the heel has the same number of stitches as the leg part (before we did the heel). It is done like this:


Needle one: knit to last 3 stitches; K2Tog, K1;

Needle two: knit (or continue rib pattern) evenly, you don't make any decreases on this needle at this point.

Needle three: k1, slip 1, k1, psso. Knit to end of needle.

SECOND ROUND: work evenly, no decreases.

Continue these two rows until you are back to 40(44) stitches, divided as follows: needle 1: 10(11) stitches; needle 2: 20(22) stitches; needle 3: 10(11) stitches.

Continue working evenly (no more decreases) until foot measures desired length -- or 6.5(7.5) inches. You measure from the little ridge where you picked up the stitches on the heel -- the gusset. You can make this the exact length required for the sock wearer's foot -- if you take their total foot length and subtract about 1.25 or 1.5 inches for the heel part, then subtract another 1.5 to 2 inches for the toe.


First row: needle one: knit to last 3 stitches, k2Tog, k1; needle two: k1, slip 1, K1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches; k2Tog, k1; needle three: k1, slip 1, k1, psso, knit to end of row. Second round: knit evenly. (if you had been ribbing on the top of the foot, discontinue ribbing and now knit for toe decreases).

Continue last two rows until 20 stitches remain. Knit stitches from first needle onto third needle. You will then have 10 stitches on each of two needles. Graft the two sets of ten stitches together to finish the toe.

Easy, right?!

One tip/word of wisdom: Always cast on stitches for the second sock immediately ... then you will get the second sock underway and the completed first sock won't be an orphan!

Inventing your own patterns: you can make your own sock patterns by following a simple formula -- really, socks are just math!!

Alternatively, here's a handy link to Elizabeth Bennett's online sock calculator which will do the math for you.

© 1998 - 2001 Terri Lee Royea

socks 101 tutorial


Monday, December 1, 2008

Ballband dishcloth

Ballband Dishcloth

Items can be worked in any color you choose.


Peaches & Crème, Article 930H: One ball each color A (1White) and color B (174 Royal Verde)

Size 7 Needles

Size: Approximately 9 1/4" X 9 3/4"

Gauge: 4 sts. = 1", 8 rows = 1"


Cast on 45 stitches (loosely) with Color A (When asked to slip stitch, do so purlwise)

Row 1: (Color A) Knit

Row 2: (Color A) Purl

Row 3: (Color B) K4 Slip 1*K5 Slip 1* Continue between *across to last 4 stitches, K4

Row 4: (Color B) K4 YF Slip 1 YB *K5 YF Slip 1 YB* Continue between * across to last 4 stitches, K4

Row 5: (Color B) P4 YB Slip 1 YF *P5 YB Slip 1 YF* Continue between * across to last 4 stitches, P4

Row 6: (Color B) Repeat Row 4

Row 7: (Color A) Knit

Row 8: (Color A) Purl

Row 9: (Color B) K1 Slip 1 *K5 Slip 1* Continue between * across to 1 stitch, K1

Row 10: (Color B) K1 YF Slip 1 YB *K5 YF Slip 1 YB* Continue between *across to 1 stitch, K1

Row 11: (Color B) P1 YB Slip 1 YF *P5 YB Slip 1 YF* Continue between * across to 1 stitch, P1

Row 12: (Color B) Repeat Row 10

Repeat these twelve rows until desired length is reached finishing with rows 1 and 2.

Bind off loosely. If desired, crochet edge on each side in Color A

Friday, November 28, 2008


Basic Slipper Pattern:


US 9 (5.5 mm) needle
US 11 (8.0 mm) needle for bind off
Worsted weight yarn 7 ounce skein (plenty for all sizes)
Fun Fur 2 balls (1 ball is enough for smallest size)

Gauge: 3-1/2 stitches to the inch

Directions are for 6 (7-8-9-10-11-12) inch slippers.

With double strand of worsted weight, cast on 44 (50-56-62-68-74-80) stitches.

Work in garter stitch for 2 inches.

Cut off one strand of worsted weight and begin knitting with one strand of worsted and one of novelty yarn.

Knit the next row placing a marker between the center stitches.

Row 1: Knit to within 6 stitches of marker, k2 tog 3 times, slip marker, k2 tog 3 times, k1, turn, purl 8, turn and knit to end of row.

Row 2: Purl across.

Repeat these 2 rows until 26 stitches remain, ending with purl row.

Work in stockinet for 5 rows.

Work 5 rows in k1-p1 ribbing. Bind off loosely (this is the cuff of slipper). Use size 11 needle to bind off.

Fold in half purl sides together (the purl side is fuzzier). Sew bottom and back using one strand of the cast on tails for each seam.

Bootie pictured is the 6 inch size, which is a children’s size 8.

loom baby ugg's

Tools: small round blue Knifty Knitter loom, 1 skien Vanna White yarn in taupe, 1 skien fuzzy tan yarn

Calf to Ankle:

Using the blue kk loom, cast on 10 pegs using e-wrap and knit 24 rows back and forth. This will knit a flat peice. After kniting 24 rows, crochet off. Put this peice aside.


Using the blue kk loom, cast on 8 pegs and knit 16 rows back and forth using e-wrap. Crochet off, and set aside.


Cast on blue kk loom 5 pegs and knit 8 rows back and forth using e-wrap. Crochet off.

Now, get the peice made for the toe. Turn inside out and sew up one end and two sides leaving the other end open. Turn right side out and set aside.

Take the panel you made for the calf to ankle and turn inside out sewing the two ends together. Turn right side out once this is done and set aside.

Now, take the heel peice lengthwise and sew one end to the bottom of the opening for the toe. Once it is attached to the bottom of the toe, get the calf to ankle peice and sew the front of it to the top of the toe opening, gradually sewing around until you get to the heel peice. Then sew the heel to the calf to ankle peice going around until all three peices are sewed together.

Once this is done, cut a long strand of the fuzzy yarn and go around the top of the boot basically whipping the yarn on around it. Then you will sew a line down to the toe at a slant. Once you have done this and the yarn is above the toe, then sew around to each side with the fuzzy yarn.

And your done!! I hope you all will try this pattern and share with me your results! If anyone has any questions feel free to let me know! I hope you all like them!

fits 6 month to 1 year

slipper boot

Sizes XS(S,M,L,XL)
XS & S = small child to young teen
M = Women size 6 to 8 shoe
L & XL = Men
Directions are for smallest size with larger sizes in brackets. If there is only one figure, it applies to all sizes.

any knitting worsted weight yarn
4.5mm double pointed needles (4 needles for small sizes and 5 needles for larger sizes) or size to obtain gauge
markers, darning needle

Gauge: 20 sts and 26 rows = 4"/10 cm over stockinette st

2x2 ribbing - *k2, p2, repeat from *
dpn(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
k - knit
k2tog - knit 2 stitches together
p – purl
p2tog – purl 2 stitches together
pm - place marker
rnd(s) - round(s)
ssk - slip 2 stitches separately to right needle as if to knit. Knit these 2 stitches together by inserting left needle into them from left to right.
st(s) - stitch(es)

Bottom of boot:
Cast on 64(72,80,88,96) sts distributing evenly over 3 needles, pm and join.
*K 1 rnd, p 1 rnd, repeat from * 5(6,6,7,7) more times.

Middle portion of boot:
K29(33,37,41,45) sts, k2tog, p1, pm to denote centre of boot, p1, ssk, k to end of rnd.
Following rnds, k to last 3 sts before centre marker, k2tog, p1, slip marker, p1, ssk, k to end of rnd.
Continue decreasing in this manner until 32(36,40,40,44) sts left on needles.

Top/ribbing of boot, XS(M,L):
Work a 2x2 ribbing for 16(20,20) rnds, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Bind off loosely.

Top/ribbing of boot, S(XL):
Work a 2x2 ribbing for 18(22) rnds, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Bind off loosely.

Sew up bottom with darning needle and weave in ends.
Fold cuff over.

1. Work bottom, middle portion and ribbing in 3 different colours.
2. Work bottom and cuff in one colour, middle portion in another colour.
3. Embellish boot with a fancy edging.

The following pattern is the original source for my adaptation above.

Amy Detjen's Aunt Alm's Dorm Boots!

4 mm/US 6 needle and 2 oz knitting worsted weight yarn
Cast on 76 sts (86 sts for men) - (3.75 mm/US 5 needle with 76 sts for children)

Knit 14 rows (7 ridges) in Garter Stitch.

Row 1 - K35, k2tog, p2, k2tog in back of st, k35.
Row 2 - P34, p2tog in back of st, k2, p2tog, p34.

Continue these two rows until there are 40 sts left on needles.
Work 7 rows (3.5 ridges) of Garter Stitch.
Bind off with large needle. Sew up back and bottom.

- - - - Amy adds - - -

Aunt Alm died last summer (1998), and I know she's just sitting up there waiting for us to cast on ... but she also wouldn't mind if we edited her pattern a little.

These are the official Knitu Dorm Boots!!! Knit on....

Fuzzy knitted boot slippers

Knitted Boot Slippers - Child
This is a favorite pattern of mine and I have created a crocheted version of it for those that don't knit. Here is the knitted version.

1 to 3 yrs of age size # 6 needles
4 to 6 yrs of age size # 8 needles
Knitting Worsted Yarn

Cast on 52 sts and work 8 rows of garter st. (knit each row).

Row 9: Knit 22 sts, k2 tog; put a marker on needle; k2, put another marker on needle; slip 1 st, k1, pass slip st over, knit to the end of the row.

Row 10: Purl to marker, K2, purl to end of row.

Row 11: Knit to within 2 sts of marker, k 2 tog, move marker, k 2, move marker, slip 1, k1, pass slip stitch over, knit to end of row.

Repeat Rows 10 and 11 until only 28sts remain on needle.

Then knit 8 rows of garter sts and on 9th row, bind off loosely.

Sew sole and back heel seams together.


Try using baby yarn and size 4 needles for baby size booties. If you want to make
the foot to be longer or shorter just add or subtract stitches from the cast on total in
increments of two.

My pink and white variation it the same pattern but changes where it says to knit 8 rows even.
I fasten off the pink and tie on one strand of white sport weight yarn and one strand of white
eyelash yarn. Using these two strands of white yarns I knit the 8 rows evenly. This makes for
a soft fuzzy top on the slipper.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

slipper socks

Knit this cold-weather craft to keep your tootsies toasty!

By Anna Hobbs
Designed by Joanne Scantlebury

Brisk days and frosty nights are coming our way again. To help you face the chilly weather in comfort and style, P.E.I. designer Joanne Scantlebury knit these leg-warming slipper socks using scraps of wool yarn. They're great for aprés ski, or aprés anything!

Knee-high slipper socks are knit on two needles from the top down using leftover scraps of 3-ply yarn. Recommended for knitters with some experience. Standard abbreviations are used. Instructions are given for one-size adult slipper sock, measurements as follows:

Foot length: 27 cm (10-1/2 ins)
Leg length: 44.5 cm (17-1/2 ins)
Leg circumference: 28 cm (11 ins)

You need:
Scraps of 3-ply yarn in 15 colours, A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N and P, which knits to the tension given below
One pair 4.50 mm needles OR whichever needles you require to produce the tension given below
4.00 mm crochet hook
3 stitch holders
Tapestry needle

16 sts and 18 rows = 10 cm (4 ins) in St st. Work to the exact tension with the specified yarn to obtain satisfactory results.


Pattern I
Click to download the pattern.

Pattern II

Rows 1 to 3: Work rows 1 to 3 of graph in St st.
Rows 4 and 5: Work rows 2 and 3 of graph in St st.
Row 6: Work row 1 of graph in St st.

To make:
Beg at top of sock, with A cast on 50 sts.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K3, k2tog, yon, (k5, k2tog, yon) to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: Purl.
Rows 5 and 6: With B, knit.
Rows 7 to 12: With X = C and O = D, work Pattern II.
Rows 13 and 14: With E, knit.
Rows 15 and 16: With F, knit.
Rows 17 and 18: With G, knit.
Rows 19 to 26: With X = H, O = A, * = I and + = G, work Pattern I graph.
Rows 27 and 28: With J, knit.
Rows 29 and 30: With K, knit.
Rows 31 and 32: With A, knit.
Rows 33 to 38: With X = L and O = C, work Pattern II.
Rows 39 and 40: With E, knit.
Rows 41 and 42: With F, knit.
Rows 43 and 44: With B, knit.
Rows 45 to 52: With X = M, O = N, * = P and + = B, work Pattern I graph.
Rows 53 and 54: With J, knit.
Rows 55 and 56: With C, knit.
Rows 57 and 58: With N, knit.
Rows 59 to 64: With X = F and O = J, work Pattern II.
Rows 65 and 66: With E, knit.
Rows 67 and 68: With K, knit.
Rows 69 and 70: With G, knit.
Rows 71 to 78: With X = H, O = A, * = I and + = G, work Pattern I graph.
Rows 79 and 80: With L, knit.
Rows 81 and 82: With C, knit.
Rows 83 and 84: With A, knit.

To shape upper foot:
Next row: With K, k33, place rem 17 sts on st holder.
Next row: With K, p16, place rem 17 sts on st holder.
With X = D and O = K, work rows 2 and 3 of Pattern I graph 10 times.

Continue alternating rows 2 and 3 of graph and at same time dec 1 st each at end of needle on every row until 8 sts rem. Place these sts on holder. Break yarns.

To shape sides:
With K, right side of work facing and beg at right ankle, pick up and k 25 sts along top right-hand edge of upper foot, k 8 sts from toe st holder, pick up and k 25 sts along top left-hand side of upper foot, k 17 sts from stitch holder.

Next row: Purl, p 17 sts from rem st holder. 92 sts now on needle.
With E, k 2 rows.
With F, k 2 rows.
With N, k 2 rows.
With P, k 2 rows.
With B, k 2 rows.

To shape sole:
Next row: With C, k42, (k2tog) 4 times, k42. 88 sts now on needle.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: K40, (k2tog) 4 times, k40. 84 sts now on needle.
Next row: Knit. Cast off.

To finish:
With C, sew up bottom of sock. Sew back seam.
With G and crochet hook, work 1 row sc around top of sock. Weave in yarn ends on wrong side of work.

Tie and Tassels
Cut four 150 cm (59-ins) lengths of different-coloured yarns. Knot 2 strands to the other 2 to make 3 m (118-ins) length. Attach one end to a doorknob or clamp. Twist yarn until it becomes a springy coil. Fold twisted length in half to form cord. Knot each end. Thread through holes at top of sock. Make 2 tassels and attach to each end of cord.

Make second sock in same manner.