Skill level: Beginner
Designed by Marilyn Coleman.
Cute as a button and soft as a cloud. Easy knit afghan is the perfect gift to wrap your little one in snuggly warmth and comfort.
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free pattern instructions (pdf)
supplies
RED HEART® “Baby Clouds™”, Art. E710 (6 ounce/148 yard solid color and 4½ ounce/110 yard multicolor skeins): 18 Ounces No. E710.9638 Baby Green.
Knitting Needles: 10mm [US 15].
Yarn needle to weave in ends.
abbreviations
* : repeat whatever follows the * as indicated
K : Knit
mm : millimeters
P : purl
rep : repeat
Stst : Stockinette stitch (K 1 row, P 1 row)
st(s) : stitch (es)
tog : together
yo : yarn over
sizes
Blanket measures approximately 36½" square.
gauges
8 sts = 4"; 15 rows = 4" in pattern. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size needles to obtain the gauge.
instructions
Cast on 73 sts.
Marking first row as the right side, work in pattern as follows:
Rows 1, 2, 3, and 4: Knit.
Row 5: K3, * yo, K2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts; K2.
Repeat Rows 1-5 until approximately 36" from beginning, end by working pattern Row 5.
Knit 4 more rows.
Bind off.
Hints& Tips:
Use a short length of contrast color yarn to weave into the first row of stitches to “mark” that row as the right side.
- The pattern row (Row 5) is alternately worked on right and wrong side rows to keep the blanket square: first the pattern row is worked on a right side row, then 4 rows later it is worked on a wrong side row.
- To keep track of the number of rows you have worked between pattern rows, count the number of ridges formed by the knit rows – there should be 2 ridges above the pattern row on both sides of the blanket; then you are ready for the pattern row.
Showing posts with label knit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label knit. Show all posts
Sunday, June 21, 2009
baby blanket
FREE PATTERN Heaven Mini Baby Blanket
Materials: 4 balls Heaven
Size: approx. 24 x 24”
Gauge: 8 sts = 4” over g st. Needles: Size US 15 circular needle, 24” or longer.
With size 15 needle, loosely cast on 4 sts. Knit 2 rows.
Increase row: K2, *yo, knit to end.
Repeat increase row to 62 sts Work 1 row as: K1, k2tog, yo, knit to end.
Decrease row: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end.
Repeat decrease row until 5 sts remain.
Last decrease row: K1, k2tog, k2. Knit 1 row even.
Bind off. Weave in all ends.
ABBREVIATIONS: K = knit, P = purl, sts = stitch(es), g st = garter st, k2tog = knit 2 sts together, yo = yarn over.
Designed by Anita Closic
Materials: 4 balls Heaven
Size: approx. 24 x 24”
Gauge: 8 sts = 4” over g st. Needles: Size US 15 circular needle, 24” or longer.
With size 15 needle, loosely cast on 4 sts. Knit 2 rows.
Increase row: K2, *yo, knit to end.
Repeat increase row to 62 sts Work 1 row as: K1, k2tog, yo, knit to end.
Decrease row: K1, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end.
Repeat decrease row until 5 sts remain.
Last decrease row: K1, k2tog, k2. Knit 1 row even.
Bind off. Weave in all ends.
ABBREVIATIONS: K = knit, P = purl, sts = stitch(es), g st = garter st, k2tog = knit 2 sts together, yo = yarn over.
Designed by Anita Closic
baby warmers
1.15.2008
Legwarmies
Legwarmies
by Alana Dakos
These are the perfect cool weather accessory for the "little legs" in your life. I love to put my 2 year old in those cute short skirts and dresses for spring, but I worry about her little legs being too cold. These are great for chilly mornings because they are so easy to slip off when the sun comes out. She also wears them over tights for added warmth on an extra cool day.
Legwarmies are practical and a fun and funky fashion statement. You can knit them to match all your favorite outfits. They make great last minute gifts because it only takes a weekend to whip up a pair. Legwarmies stretch to fit most children from about 3 months to 3 years old. This yarn is wonderfully soft and warm against your little ones skin and, guess what moms, you can even machine wash them!
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Cuff Circumference: 5 inches unstretched, 10 inches stretched
Length: 9 inches (This measurement can be adjusted by lengthening or shortening St st panel.)
MATERIALS
Version A (Solid Color): Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino [55% Merino wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137yd/125m per 50g skein]; color: #600, Dusty Pink; 1 skein
Version B (Thin Stripe): [MC] Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino [55% Merino wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137yd/125m per 50g skein]; color: #503, Apple Green; 1 skein [CC] Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino color: #013, Grape; 1 skein
Version C (Wide Stripe): [MC] Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino [55% Merino wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137yd/125m per 50g skein]; color: #007, Magenta; 1 skein [CC] Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino color: #101, Off White; 1 skein
#1 set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles
Stitch Marker
Tapestry Needle
GAUGE
28 sts/36 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
PATTERN NOTES
2x2 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts)
Round 1: [K2, p2] to end.
Every round is the same.
Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Cast off:
(This produces a nice stretchy cuff that won't be too tight and cut off circulation!)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle. Insert needle purlwise into first stitch then move it to be the last stitch on the final needle. It will then become the final stitch to be cast off. This gives a neater finish to the end of the round. Continue with the following instructions:
*Sew purlwise (right to left) through 2 stitches, leave the stitches on the needle. Sew knitwise (left to right) through the first stitch and then remove stitch from the needle. Repeat from * for the entire circumference. You will have one stitch remaining. Insert needle purlwise into last stitch and remove from the needle.
PATTERN
With [MC] loosely cast on 44 stitches. Divide stitches evenly between 3 double pointed needles. (15 stitches on needles 1 and 2, 14 stitches on needle 3.) Join into a round being careful not to twist your stitches. Mark first stitch for beginning of round. Work 6 rounds in 2x2 Rib.
Version A (Solid Color): Switch to St st and work until piece measures 8 inches from cast on edge. Work 6 more rounds in 2x2 Rib. Loosely cast off using Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Cast off method.
Version B (Thin Stripe): *Drop [MC] switch to [CC] and work 2 rounds in St st. Drop [CC], pick up [MC] and work 2 rounds in St st. Repeat from * continuing in this manner until you have 35 stripes total ending with a [CC] stripe. Cut [CC] leaving a long tail to weave in the end. Pick up [MC]. Knit one round. Work 6 rounds in 2x2 Rib. Loosely cast off using Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Cast off method.
Version C (Wide Stripe): *Drop [MC] switch to [CC] and work 4 rounds in St st. Drop [CC] pick up [MC] and work 4 rounds in St st. Repeat from * continuing in this manner until you have 17 stripes total ending with a [CC] stripe. Cut [CC] leaving a long tail to weave in end. Pick up [MC] Knit one round. Work 6 rounds in 2x2 Rib. Loosely cast off using Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Cast off method.
FINISHING
Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block lightly.
By the way, my daughter has been wearing these a lot lately and they look super duper cute on her and everyone comments on them!
Posted by NeverNotKnitting at 10:47 PM
Labels: Legwarmies
Legwarmies
Legwarmies
by Alana Dakos
These are the perfect cool weather accessory for the "little legs" in your life. I love to put my 2 year old in those cute short skirts and dresses for spring, but I worry about her little legs being too cold. These are great for chilly mornings because they are so easy to slip off when the sun comes out. She also wears them over tights for added warmth on an extra cool day.
Legwarmies are practical and a fun and funky fashion statement. You can knit them to match all your favorite outfits. They make great last minute gifts because it only takes a weekend to whip up a pair. Legwarmies stretch to fit most children from about 3 months to 3 years old. This yarn is wonderfully soft and warm against your little ones skin and, guess what moms, you can even machine wash them!
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Cuff Circumference: 5 inches unstretched, 10 inches stretched
Length: 9 inches (This measurement can be adjusted by lengthening or shortening St st panel.)
MATERIALS
Version A (Solid Color): Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino [55% Merino wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137yd/125m per 50g skein]; color: #600, Dusty Pink; 1 skein
Version B (Thin Stripe): [MC] Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino [55% Merino wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137yd/125m per 50g skein]; color: #503, Apple Green; 1 skein [CC] Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino color: #013, Grape; 1 skein
Version C (Wide Stripe): [MC] Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino [55% Merino wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137yd/125m per 50g skein]; color: #007, Magenta; 1 skein [CC] Debbie Bliss baby cashmerino color: #101, Off White; 1 skein
#1 set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles
Stitch Marker
Tapestry Needle
GAUGE
28 sts/36 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
PATTERN NOTES
2x2 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts)
Round 1: [K2, p2] to end.
Every round is the same.
Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Cast off:
(This produces a nice stretchy cuff that won't be too tight and cut off circulation!)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle. Insert needle purlwise into first stitch then move it to be the last stitch on the final needle. It will then become the final stitch to be cast off. This gives a neater finish to the end of the round. Continue with the following instructions:
*Sew purlwise (right to left) through 2 stitches, leave the stitches on the needle. Sew knitwise (left to right) through the first stitch and then remove stitch from the needle. Repeat from * for the entire circumference. You will have one stitch remaining. Insert needle purlwise into last stitch and remove from the needle.
PATTERN
With [MC] loosely cast on 44 stitches. Divide stitches evenly between 3 double pointed needles. (15 stitches on needles 1 and 2, 14 stitches on needle 3.) Join into a round being careful not to twist your stitches. Mark first stitch for beginning of round. Work 6 rounds in 2x2 Rib.
Version A (Solid Color): Switch to St st and work until piece measures 8 inches from cast on edge. Work 6 more rounds in 2x2 Rib. Loosely cast off using Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Cast off method.
Version B (Thin Stripe): *Drop [MC] switch to [CC] and work 2 rounds in St st. Drop [CC], pick up [MC] and work 2 rounds in St st. Repeat from * continuing in this manner until you have 35 stripes total ending with a [CC] stripe. Cut [CC] leaving a long tail to weave in the end. Pick up [MC]. Knit one round. Work 6 rounds in 2x2 Rib. Loosely cast off using Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Cast off method.
Version C (Wide Stripe): *Drop [MC] switch to [CC] and work 4 rounds in St st. Drop [CC] pick up [MC] and work 4 rounds in St st. Repeat from * continuing in this manner until you have 17 stripes total ending with a [CC] stripe. Cut [CC] leaving a long tail to weave in end. Pick up [MC] Knit one round. Work 6 rounds in 2x2 Rib. Loosely cast off using Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Cast off method.
FINISHING
Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block lightly.
By the way, my daughter has been wearing these a lot lately and they look super duper cute on her and everyone comments on them!
Posted by NeverNotKnitting at 10:47 PM
Labels: Legwarmies
Sunday, December 14, 2008
how to seam
Finishing: Seams and Weaving Yarn Tails
While it may be tempting to hurry through the finishing so you can finally see the completed project, it's important not to rush through sewing the seams and weaving yarn tails if you want the end result to look polished and professional. Block each piece before assembling, and allow the pieces to dry. This helps the edges remain flat as you work.
Shoulder Seams (bound-off edges)
Step 1: Lay both pieces flat, with right sides facing up. Thread a yarn needle, and, beginning at the right-side edge of the piece closest to you (the lower piece), insert the needle from back to front through the center of the first stitch. Pull the yarn through, leaving a yarn tail to weave in later.
Step 2: Insert the needle from right to left under the two vertical legs of the first stitch on the piece farther from you (fig. 25a), then insert the needle from right to left under the next two vertical legs on the near piece, beginning in the same hole as the first stitch was made. Pull the yarn gently to adjust the stitch and close the stitches together.
Shoulder Seams: Figure 25a
Step 3: Continue to alternate sides, inserting the needle from right to left under two strands and beginning in the same hole as the last stitch was made. Pull the yarn every few stitches to adjust it and close the seam. At the end of the seam, weave in the yarn tail.
Mattress Stitch
Mattress stitch is a great stitch to know when it comes to sewing vertical seams, including side and sleeve seams.
Step 1: Thread a yarn needle with matching color yarn, leaving a four-inch tail to weave in later. With both pieces flat and right sides facing up, insert the needle under the horizontal strand between the first and second stitches of the first row on one piece and the corresponding strand on the second piece. Gently pull the yarn to tighten.
Step 2: Insert the needle under the horizontal strand on the next row of one piece, and then insert the needle under the strand on the same row of the other piece.
Step 3: Continue to work under the horizontal strands, alternating pieces, until you have six to eight rows worked (fig. 25b), and then pull the yarn gently to close the seam.
Mattress Stitch: Figure 25b
Step 4: Continue weaving together to the end of the seam. Weave yarn tails into the seam stitches, and secure.
Backstitch
Backstitch is an easy way to make a firm seam.
Step 1: Thread a tapestry needle with matching yarn. With right sides together, work along the wrong sides about one stitch in from the edges. Work two running stitches on top of each other to secure the lower edges (fig. 26a).
Backstitch: Figure 26a
Step 2: With the needle and yarn behind the work, insert the needle through both layers of fabric about two stitches to the left of the running stitch and pull the yarn to the front of the work.
Step 3: Insert the needle from front to back one stitch back to the right, working through both layers.
Step 4: Moving forward to the left about two stitches, bring the needle to the front of the work, about one stitch ahead of the original stitch. Repeat the process until you reach the end of the seam, working one stitch backward (to the right) on the front side of the work and two stitches forward (to the left) on the back side of the work.
Step 5: Finish the seam by working two or three running stitches on top of each other, stitching over the bound-off edges. Weave in yarn tails.
Three-Needle Bind-off
This bind-off finishes off two edges, binding off the stitches and closing the seam at the same time. Normally used to close shoulders, it can also be used to close side seams when working a garment from side to side. You can also pick up stitches along two side edges and then use the three-needle bind-off to close those seams. To make a flat, neat seam on the right side, follow these instructions.
Step 1: With the right sides of the work together, and with the needle tips aligned and facing to the right (fig. 27a), hold both needles in your left hand.
Three-Needle Bind-off: Figure 27a
Step 2: Insert the empty right-hand needle into the first stitch on each of the two needles in the left hand, and knit the two stitches together (fig. 27b). Slip them off the needle as you would a knit stitch. You now have one stitch on the right needle.
Three-Needle Bind-off: Figure 27b
Step 3: Knit the next pair of stitches the same way. You now have two stitches on the right needle.
Step 4: Pull the first stitch on the right-hand needle over the second stitch (the one closest to the tip), just as you would in a normal bind-off (fig. 27c).
Three-Needle Bind-off: Figure 27c
Step 5: Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all stitches have been bound off. Cut the yarn and pull the end through the last loop; weave in the end to secure.
Kitchener Stitch (or Grafting)
This technique joins live stitches together in an elastic, invisible seam. The method can also be used over bound-off stitches to make a strong, stable seam.
With an equal number of stitches on two needles, and right sides facing up, hold the needles parallel to each other with points facing right. Thread a blunt tapestry needle with two to three times the length of the area to be joined. For live stitches, work as follows:
Step 1: Insert threaded needle into the first stitch on the front needle purlwise (as if to purl); leave stitch on needle.
Step 2: Insert needle into the first stitch on the back needle knitwise (as if to knit); leave stitch on needle.
Step 3: Insert needle into the same first stitch on the front needle knitwise (fig. 28a); slip stitch off needle.
Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28a
Insert needle into the next front stitch purlwise; leave stitch on needle (fig. 28b).
Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28b
Step 4: Insert needle into the same stitch on the back needle purlwise (fig. 28c); slip stitch off needle.
Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28c
Insert needle into the next back stitch knitwise; leave stitch on needle (fig. 28d).
Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28d
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all stitches are worked.
Tip: To make the technique easier as you work, remember this...Front needle: purlwise leave on, knitwise take off. Back needle: knitwise leave on, purlwise take off.
Weaving in Yarn Tails
Carefully weaving in the yarn ends makes your knitting look neat and keeps it from pulling loose and unraveling over time.
Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail. Working on the wrong side of the knitting, weave the needle in and out of the back of the stitches for a few inches in one direction, and then turn and work in the opposite direction for an inch or two. Pull the yarn gently to tighten, and cut it close to the work. Stretch the knitting slightly so that the tail disappears into the last stitch.
Learn all about washing and blocking your knitted piece in the next section.
Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:
How to Knit
Free Baby Knitting Patterns
Free Clothing Knitting Patterns
Free Knitting Patterns for the Home
Free Accessory Knitting Patterns
Free and Easy Knitting Patterns
Free Knitting Patterns
Previous Page Next Page
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Vogue Knitting Magazine
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Knitting 101
Explore The Art Of Knitting. The Hottest Hobby Ideas!
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Inside this Article
Knitting Instructions
Determining and Knitting Gauge
Knitting in the Round
Knitting Increases
Knitting Decreases
Special Knitting Stitches
Knitting Cables
Joining New Yarn
Knitting Buttonholes
Fixing Knitting Mistakes
Basic Crochet Stitches
Finishing: Picking Up Stitches
Finishing: Seams and Weaving Yarn Tails
Washing and Blocking Knitting
Felted Knitting
Standard Knitting Abbreviations
See all How to Knit articles
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While it may be tempting to hurry through the finishing so you can finally see the completed project, it's important not to rush through sewing the seams and weaving yarn tails if you want the end result to look polished and professional. Block each piece before assembling, and allow the pieces to dry. This helps the edges remain flat as you work.
Shoulder Seams (bound-off edges)
Step 1: Lay both pieces flat, with right sides facing up. Thread a yarn needle, and, beginning at the right-side edge of the piece closest to you (the lower piece), insert the needle from back to front through the center of the first stitch. Pull the yarn through, leaving a yarn tail to weave in later.
Step 2: Insert the needle from right to left under the two vertical legs of the first stitch on the piece farther from you (fig. 25a), then insert the needle from right to left under the next two vertical legs on the near piece, beginning in the same hole as the first stitch was made. Pull the yarn gently to adjust the stitch and close the stitches together.
Shoulder Seams: Figure 25a
Step 3: Continue to alternate sides, inserting the needle from right to left under two strands and beginning in the same hole as the last stitch was made. Pull the yarn every few stitches to adjust it and close the seam. At the end of the seam, weave in the yarn tail.
Mattress Stitch
Mattress stitch is a great stitch to know when it comes to sewing vertical seams, including side and sleeve seams.
Step 1: Thread a yarn needle with matching color yarn, leaving a four-inch tail to weave in later. With both pieces flat and right sides facing up, insert the needle under the horizontal strand between the first and second stitches of the first row on one piece and the corresponding strand on the second piece. Gently pull the yarn to tighten.
Step 2: Insert the needle under the horizontal strand on the next row of one piece, and then insert the needle under the strand on the same row of the other piece.
Step 3: Continue to work under the horizontal strands, alternating pieces, until you have six to eight rows worked (fig. 25b), and then pull the yarn gently to close the seam.
Mattress Stitch: Figure 25b
Step 4: Continue weaving together to the end of the seam. Weave yarn tails into the seam stitches, and secure.
Backstitch
Backstitch is an easy way to make a firm seam.
Step 1: Thread a tapestry needle with matching yarn. With right sides together, work along the wrong sides about one stitch in from the edges. Work two running stitches on top of each other to secure the lower edges (fig. 26a).
Backstitch: Figure 26a
Step 2: With the needle and yarn behind the work, insert the needle through both layers of fabric about two stitches to the left of the running stitch and pull the yarn to the front of the work.
Step 3: Insert the needle from front to back one stitch back to the right, working through both layers.
Step 4: Moving forward to the left about two stitches, bring the needle to the front of the work, about one stitch ahead of the original stitch. Repeat the process until you reach the end of the seam, working one stitch backward (to the right) on the front side of the work and two stitches forward (to the left) on the back side of the work.
Step 5: Finish the seam by working two or three running stitches on top of each other, stitching over the bound-off edges. Weave in yarn tails.
Three-Needle Bind-off
This bind-off finishes off two edges, binding off the stitches and closing the seam at the same time. Normally used to close shoulders, it can also be used to close side seams when working a garment from side to side. You can also pick up stitches along two side edges and then use the three-needle bind-off to close those seams. To make a flat, neat seam on the right side, follow these instructions.
Step 1: With the right sides of the work together, and with the needle tips aligned and facing to the right (fig. 27a), hold both needles in your left hand.
Three-Needle Bind-off: Figure 27a
Step 2: Insert the empty right-hand needle into the first stitch on each of the two needles in the left hand, and knit the two stitches together (fig. 27b). Slip them off the needle as you would a knit stitch. You now have one stitch on the right needle.
Three-Needle Bind-off: Figure 27b
Step 3: Knit the next pair of stitches the same way. You now have two stitches on the right needle.
Step 4: Pull the first stitch on the right-hand needle over the second stitch (the one closest to the tip), just as you would in a normal bind-off (fig. 27c).
Three-Needle Bind-off: Figure 27c
Step 5: Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all stitches have been bound off. Cut the yarn and pull the end through the last loop; weave in the end to secure.
Kitchener Stitch (or Grafting)
This technique joins live stitches together in an elastic, invisible seam. The method can also be used over bound-off stitches to make a strong, stable seam.
With an equal number of stitches on two needles, and right sides facing up, hold the needles parallel to each other with points facing right. Thread a blunt tapestry needle with two to three times the length of the area to be joined. For live stitches, work as follows:
Step 1: Insert threaded needle into the first stitch on the front needle purlwise (as if to purl); leave stitch on needle.
Step 2: Insert needle into the first stitch on the back needle knitwise (as if to knit); leave stitch on needle.
Step 3: Insert needle into the same first stitch on the front needle knitwise (fig. 28a); slip stitch off needle.
Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28a
Insert needle into the next front stitch purlwise; leave stitch on needle (fig. 28b).
Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28b
Step 4: Insert needle into the same stitch on the back needle purlwise (fig. 28c); slip stitch off needle.
Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28c
Insert needle into the next back stitch knitwise; leave stitch on needle (fig. 28d).
Kitchener Stitch: Figure 28d
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all stitches are worked.
Tip: To make the technique easier as you work, remember this...Front needle: purlwise leave on, knitwise take off. Back needle: knitwise leave on, purlwise take off.
Weaving in Yarn Tails
Carefully weaving in the yarn ends makes your knitting look neat and keeps it from pulling loose and unraveling over time.
Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail. Working on the wrong side of the knitting, weave the needle in and out of the back of the stitches for a few inches in one direction, and then turn and work in the opposite direction for an inch or two. Pull the yarn gently to tighten, and cut it close to the work. Stretch the knitting slightly so that the tail disappears into the last stitch.
Learn all about washing and blocking your knitted piece in the next section.
Not what you’re looking for? Try these helpful articles:
How to Knit
Free Baby Knitting Patterns
Free Clothing Knitting Patterns
Free Knitting Patterns for the Home
Free Accessory Knitting Patterns
Free and Easy Knitting Patterns
Free Knitting Patterns
Previous Page Next Page
Ads by Google
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Knitting Scarf
Easy Scarves You Can Knit With Step-By-Step Instructions
www.BHG.com
Vogue Knitting Magazine
Preview the current issue of VK Online Knitting Patterns
www.VogueKnitting.com
Knitting 101
Explore The Art Of Knitting. The Hottest Hobby Ideas!
www.LifeScript.com
Inside this Article
Knitting Instructions
Determining and Knitting Gauge
Knitting in the Round
Knitting Increases
Knitting Decreases
Special Knitting Stitches
Knitting Cables
Joining New Yarn
Knitting Buttonholes
Fixing Knitting Mistakes
Basic Crochet Stitches
Finishing: Picking Up Stitches
Finishing: Seams and Weaving Yarn Tails
Washing and Blocking Knitting
Felted Knitting
Standard Knitting Abbreviations
See all How to Knit articles
digg more
buzz more
Related Ad Categories
Hat Knitting Pattern
Knitting List
Knitting Dishcloths
Knitting Knit
Finger Knitting
Ads by Google
CCTV Cameras
Pro Video Surveillance Cameras Complete Turnkey Systems Also
www.cctvcamerapros.com
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