Sock length vs. shoe size conversion chart

SOCK LENGTH
WHAT SIZE SOCK SHOULD YOU KNIT?
Shoe Size to Sock Length Conversion Chart. Total length of sock (including toe) based on US Shoe sizes.


Womens


US 5 = 8 5/8"
US 6 = 9"
US 7 = 9 1/4"
US 8 = 9 5/8"
US 9 = 10"
US 10 = 10 1/4"
US 11 = 10 5/8 "
US 12 = 11"
US 13 = 11 1/4"

Mens

US 3.5 = 8 1/2"
US 4 = 8 5/8"
US 5 = 9"
US 6 = 9 1/2"
US 7 = 9 3/4"
US 8 = 10"
US 9 = 10 1/2"
US 10 = 10 3/4"
US 11 = 11"
US 12 = 11 1/2"
US 13 = 11 3/4"
US 14 = 12"

Infants & Childrens

US 1 = 3 1/2"
US 2 = 4"
US 3 = 4 1/4"
US 4 = 4 1/2"
US 5 = 5"
US 6 = 5 1/4"
US 7 = 5 1/2"
US 8 = 6"
US 9 = 6 1/4"
US 10 = 6 1/2"
US 11 = 7"
US 12 = 7 1/4"
US 13 = 7 1/2"
US 1 = 7 5/8"
US 2 = 8 1/4"
US 3 = 8 5/8"
US 4 = 9"


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Easy Dance and Yoga socks

These are a quick easy knit. Designed to keep the heels and toes open for gripping the mat, these socks are totally functional and fun. It's basically a K2P1 rib with some garter stitching at the opening points. Easy. Feel free to contact me or leave a comment if you have any questions. This pattern can also be found on Ravelry.
Easy Peasy Yoga - Pilates Socks


Approximately 80 to 100 yrds of fingering weight sock yarn. The samples are made of Claudia's Hand Painted Yarn in Ingrid's Blues colorway purchased from The Loopy Ewe. Any thicker type sock yarn should work fine.


US size 3 (3.25 mm) dpns or circular needles


Cast on 42 stitches.


Join in round, taking care not to twist stitches.


R1 - Knit all stitches


R2 - Purl all stitches


R3 - Knit all stitches


R4 -Purl all stitches


R5 - Knit all stitches


R6 - Begin K2 P1 rib


R7 through R41 - Continue K2 P1 rib (this was approximately 3.5 inches for me. You may want more or less rows depending on your desired sock size.)


R42 - K2P1 for 21 stitches (this is the top of your sock), K 21 (this is the bottom of your sock)


R43 - K2P1 for 21 stitches (top), P 21 (bottom)


R44 - K2P1 for 21 stitches (top), Cast Off 21 (bottom - I add an extra knitted stitch every 5th stitch for a bit of extra give)


R45 - R46 will be worked back and forth


R45 - Slip 1st stitch. K1P1, K2P1 to end. Turn work.


R46 - Slip 1st stitch. P1K1, P2K1 to end. Turn work.


R47 - Slip 1st stitch. K1P1, K2P1 to end. Cast on 21 stitches. Join in round, taking care not to twist stitches.


R48 - K2P1 for 21 stitches (top of sock); K21 stitches (bottom of sock)


R49 - K2P1 for 21 stitches (top of sock); P21 stitches (bottom of sock)


R50 - K2P1 for 21 stitches (top of sock); K21 stitches (bottom of sock)


R51 - K2P1 all stitches.


R52- R86 - Continue in K2P1 pattern. This is the point to add more rows of the K2P1 pattern if you wish a longer top to your sock.


R87 - K all stitches


R88 - P all stitches


R89 - K all stitches


R90 - Bind off loosely. For a bit more give, I place an extra knit stitch every 6th bind off stitch.

springtime dish cloth

Springtime DishCloth Pattern
Fireflys Spring Time Hand Knit Dish ClothI made this pretty hand knit washcloth / dishcloth from a sturdy worsted weight cotton in a pretty and bright early spring green color.

The primary pattern stitch is the twisted purl from Barbara Walker's "A Treasury of Knitting Patterns". I love the twisted purl stitch, because it is a truly reversible pattern. It doesn't look the same on both sides, but the reverse side is quite attractive; it is a perfect stitch for scarfs and dish cloths for that reason. It is a very enjoyable stitch to work, so I recommend it for all of these reasons.

The finished size is 10 1/4"; the guage is 4 1/2 stitches to the inch; I used approximately 120 yards on this cloth.

Materials

* 1 hank Fantasy Naturale, 100% Mercerized Cotton from Plymouth Yarn in color number 8011 (or similar worsted weight cotton yarn)
* U.S. Size 8 16" or 29" circular needle (or straight needles if you prefer)
* Tapestry needle

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Directions

Cast on 60 stitches.

Knit first four rows.

Pattern Rows

Rows 1 and 3: Knit across row, turn.

Row 2: K3, *P2 tog without slipping stitches from needle, then purl the first stitch again, then slip both stitches from the needle together*; repeat from * to * across row to within last three stitches; K3; turn.

Row 4: K3, P1, *repeat from * to * as per Row 2 across row to within last 4 stitches*; P1, K3, turn.

Repeat Pattern Rows 1 through 4 until entire piece measures 9 3/4".

Knit last four rows.

Cast off; break off leaving a few inches to weave tail into fabric.

Using tapestry needle, weave tails of yarn at beginning and end of piece carefully into the fabric. Trim.

You might want to block this cloth, because the pattern stitch rows tend to be looser than the border stitches on both sides, and might tend to be tighter than the border rows at the top and bottom.

If you can't bear to use this cloth to wash dishes with, you might consider using it as a pillow top. I most likely will

cozy toes hand knitted socks

Cozy Toes Hand Knit Socks
Cozy Toes Hand Knit Socks by fireflyMy daughter gave me two hanks of Chunky Misti Alpaca yarn for Christmas because she knew I was yearning to make myself a warm and cozy pair of house socks for the winter months ahead.

Misti Alpaca is an awesomely soft yarn that comes in several weights. Here is a quote from their website: "Softest Yarn Ever, Warmth Without Weight. Misti Alpaca Chunky is exquisitely soft and heavenly to knit. A favorite yarn of both the beginner & experienced knitter."

After knitting and wearing this pair of socks, I have to agree with those statements wholeheartedly.

On the right side of this page you will find a list of Misti Alpaca in the colors I have available as well as a convenient order form (see below) in case you care to order the yarn for your socks from me.

If you live in an area where alpaca socks would be too warm, choose any chunky yarn that yields the same gauge.

I believe I have developed here a simple pattern, easy for those who are new to knitting socks (perhaps trying to for the first time, I hope) and enjoyable for even an experienced knitter.

If you have an entire weekend to just knit and watch old movies, you might be able to finish a pair during that time.

Materials

* 2 hanks Chunky Misti Alpaca yarn (or 216 yards similar chunky yarn)
* Set of 5 U.S. Size 7 dpns
* Tapestry Needle

Order a yarn kit for your Cozy Toes! Choose from either Group 1 or Group 2 colors on the PayPal order form below (see color samples at right).

For a total price of $28.80 you will receive two hanks of the color you select.
Group One
Group Two

Directions

Gauge: 6 to 6.5 1x1 ribbing stitches (K1, P1) to the inch.

Please note these directions fit an average woman's 7.5 US shoe size. The leg (before the heel flap begins) is 11" long, the foot from the turning of the heel to the base of the toes measures 7.5".

To determine the proper foot length, measure the foot from the back of the heel to the base of the toes and add 1/2". If that measurement is longer than 7.5", make the leg that much shorter so that you will not run out of yarn. Likewise if the sock is for a shorter foot, you may increase the leg length by the same amount. You will be using pretty much one entire hank of yarn (108 yards) per sock.

Swatch

It is very important to check your gauge by knitting a swatch before you start. Though it might seem like a pain in the behind to knit a swatch, doing so is much easier than reknitting a sock that doesn't fit properly when it is complete.

When you knit your swatch, knit it in the pattern stitch which is a 1x1 rib for this pattern. I suggest you cast on twelve stitches and work about ten rows in K1, P1 ribbing. Remove the swatch from your needles without casting off and measure your gauge. If it is off, try adjusting your tension tighter or looser or change up or down one size needles until you get the same gauge my pattern calls for. (You should unravel your swatch(es) so that you can use the yarn for your socks.)

Once you are confident you are knitting to the correct gauge, begin your first sock by casting on 40 stitches loosely; these socks are knit cuff to toe.

Arrange the 40 stitches as follows on four dpns:

* Needle 1 (N1) 11 stitches
* Needle 2 (N2) 9 stitches
* Needle 3 (N3) 11 stitches
* Needle 4 (N4) 9 stitches

Make Leg

Knit two rounds, keeping stitches fairly loose.

Work 1x1 ribbing (K1, P1, beginning each complete round with K1 and ending each complete round with P1) for about one inch.

Leg Decrease Round 1: N1 (K1,P1)twice, K2tog, P2tog, K1, P1, K1; continue 1x1 ribbing on remaining needles. Two stitches decreased, 38 stitches remain.

Work 1x1 ribbing for about one more inch.

Leg Decrease Round 2: N1 and N2 continue 1x1 ribbing; N3 (K1,P1)twice, K2tog, P2tog, K1, P1, K1; N4 continue 1x1 ribbing. Two stitches decreased, 36 stitches remain.

Continue with leg in 1x1 ribbing until entire leg measures 11", or desired length. Stop last leg round after completing stitches on N3.

Slip stitches from N3 onto N2 (these will be the instep stitches); slip stitches from N4 to N1.

Heel Flap
Cozy Toes Hand Knit Socks Cuffed

Begin the Heel Flap with right side facing, working the stitches that were on N4 and N1 as follows:

Row 1 (right side): *Slip 1 purlwise, K1*; repeat from * to * to end of row. Turn.

Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, *K1, P1*; repeat from * to * to within last stitch; end K1. Turn.

Work Rows 1 and 2 of Heel Flap for a total of 18 rows.

Turn Heel

Row 1 (right side): K10, ssk, K1, turn.

Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, P3, P2tog, P1, turn.

Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, K4, K2tog, K1, turn.

Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.

Row 5: Slip 1 purlwise, K6, K2tog, K1, turn.

Row 6: Slip 1 purlwise, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.

Row 7: Slip 1 purlwise, K8, K2tog, turn.

Row 8: Slip 1 purlwise, P8, P2tog, turn. Ten heel stitches remain.

Gusset

Set up: With free needle, knit first five heel stitches; this will now be N4 again.

Using free needle, knit 5 remaining heel stitches; this will be N1 again.

With the same needle (N1) pick up and knit 9 stitches along side of heel. When you reach the instep stitches, pick up one more stitch from the row below the first instep stitch (this will help prevent a hole where the heel joins the instep). Now you have 15 stitches on N1.

With another free needle, work first 9 instep stitches in 1x1 ribbing beginning with P1; this will be N2.

With another free needle, work remaining 9 instep stitches in 1x1 ribbing beginning with K1; this will be N3.

With another free needle, pick up one stitch from the row below the first instep stitch. With the same needle, pick up and knit 9 stitches along side of heel. Knit across remaining 5 heel stitches; total of 15 stitches on this last needle and it will be N4.

At this point, you should have 15 stitches on N1 and N4, and 9 stitches on N2 and N3.

Note: Bottom of heel and bottom of foot will be all knit stitches, but the instep stitches will continue to be worked in 1x1 ribbing until you reach the toe.

Shape Gusset

Round 1 (decrease): N1 knit to within last three stitches, K2tog, K1; N2 and N3 continue in 1x1 ribbing; N4 K1, ssk, knit remaining stitches.

Round 2: N1 knit all stitches, N2 and N3 work 1 x 1 ribbing, N4 knit all stitches.

Work these two rounds a total of 18 times, until you have a total of 36 stitches remaining (9 stitches on each needle).

Make Foot

Continue to knit all stitches on N1 and N4, and work 1x1 ribbing on N2 and N3 until foot measures total of 7 1/2" (from back of heel) or to desired length).

Toe Shaping

Round 1 (decrease): N1 knit to within last three stitches, K2tog, K1; N2 K1, ssk, knit to end of needle; N3 knit to within last three stitches, K2tog, K1; N4 K1, ssk, knit remaining stitches on needle.

Round 2: Knit all stitches on all needles.

Work these two rounds until six stitches remain on each needle (24 stitches total).

Continue to work only Round 1 (decrease) until three stitches remain on each needle (12 stitches total).

Finishing

Knit stitches from N1 onto N4; six stitches will now be on N4. Slip stitches from N3 to N2. Now you will have six stitches on each of two needles.

Cut yarn, leaving a 12" tail.

Thread yarn into tapestry needle.

Slip first stitch on each needle onto tapestry needle, one after the other and remove them from the knitting needles. Pull tight.

Slip next first stitch from each needle onto tapestry needle, one after the other and remove from knitting needles. Pull tight.

Repeat this action until you have removed all stitches from the knitting needles and have secured them with the yarn tail. Pull all tight.

Using tapestry needle, pull yarn through tip of toe to inside of sock.

Turn sock inside out. Secure yarn, hide ends. Trim.

Pull any other yarn tails to inside of sock and secure, hiding ends. Trim all.

Repeat all of the above for second sock.

Wear them and enjoy some foot hugging, ankle cuddling luxury!

Knitted Tree dish cloth

Materials - 1 - 2 ounce ball worsted weight cotton yarn ( about 56 grams ), and 1 pr of knitting needles, US size 9

Gauge - 4 sts = 1 inch

Finished size - 9 ½ inches wide at bottom and 10 ½ tall.

Directions - Beginning at bottom of tree, cast on 39 sts. K 2 rows for foundation.
Start pattern -
Row 1- K 2, K 2 tog, K across row .
Row 2- K 2, P 2 tog, P across row to last 2 sts, K 2.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 more times , or total of 10 rows worked . ( 29 sts )
Row 11 - Cast on 4 sts at beginning of row, knit remaining sts.
Row 12 - Cast on 4 sts at beginning of next row, knit these 4 sts, purl across to last 4 sts, K 4.
Rows - 13- 22 - Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 10 rows. ( 27 sts )
Rows 23 - 24 - Repeat rows 11 and 12.
Rows 25 - 36- Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 12 rows. ( 25 sts )


Row 37 - Cast on 3 sts, knit across row.
Row 38 - Cast on 3 sts, knit these 3 sts, purl across to last 3 sts, K 3.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until there are 13 sts remaining. Starting on the Knit side, work as follows :
K 2, K 2 tog, K across to last 4 sts, K 2 tog, K 2.
Next row - K 2, P 2 tog, P across to last 4 sts, P 2 tog, P 2.
Next row - K 2, K 2 tog, K across to last 4 sts, K 2 tog, K 2.
Next row - K 2, P 2 tog, K 2 tog, K 1.
Last row - K 2 tog, K 1, K 2 tog. Bind off in knit st.

Pot holder

Pot Holder / Hot Pad
Lion Brand® Lion® Cotton
GAUGE:

11 sts = 3"; 6 rows = 1". BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
NOTES:

Potholder is worked with 3 strands of yarn held together throughout. To use one ball, re-roll yarn into three separate balls. (If you hare making more than one potholder, you may find it easier to get three balls of Lion Cotton to eliminate the need to re-roll.)


KNITTED POTHOLDER: With three strands of yarn held together, cast on 28 sts. Work in garter st (= k every row) until 8" from beg. Bind off until one stitch remains. Knit that st, remove needle, insert crochet hook (ch 10, sl st to base st of ch) for loop. Fasten off.


ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
Click for explanation and illustration
beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
k = knit sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)

hot pads

Easy-Going Pot Holders


by Valérie Colette Miller

www.knitbug.com








Easy-Going Pot Holders


by Valérie Colette Miller

www.knitbug.com

Easy-Going Pot Holders


by Valérie Colette Miller

www.knitbug.com

Guy Scarf

New York Scarf: A Guy’s Woolie Warmer

[Note: For the matching hat pattern and a directory of other free knitting patterns I have designed click here.]

Materials:

* 2 skiens Suri Merino from Plymouth Yarn Co. in color #402Firefly Hand Knits a New York Scarf for her Son
* 2 size U.S. 6 dpns or straight knitting needles
* Large tapestry needle
* Plenty of Love

Directions:

Cast on 35 stitches.

Rows 1 and 2: Knit.

Row 3: *K3, P2*. Repeat from * to * across row.

Row 4: *K2, P3*. Repeat from * to * across row.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until scarf measures approximately 65 inches in length.

Knit 2 more rows.

Bind off.

Using the tapestry needle, weave ends of yarn into stitches securely.

Gently block scarf to measure four and one half inches across.Fireflys Christmas Amaryllis Opening

Wrap it up with love and send it to a guy you love to keep him nice and warm inside and out.

Hope you have a wonderful

scarfc

Knit by Jeanne McCaffrey. One strand of worsted weight and one strand of sport weight was held together on size 15 US needles. About 10 ounces of yarn was used. Scarf measures 60 inches long.

You can knit a scarf any width and length you wish; a skinny scarf might be 3 inches wide, a warmer muffler type of scarf 8 inches wide.

Use any yarn desire and needles appropriate to the weight of the yarn. Stitches per inch x desired width=number of sts to CO

Instructions:

The stitches are decreased on Row 2 and then increased back to the original number on Row 3. Be sure you end with Row 3 completed. A selvedge stitch is needed on each side to work this pattern stitch. Slip the first stitch and knit the last stitch of every row, working pattern on remaining stitches. The pattern is reversible.

CO any even number of stitches.

Row 1: p
Row 2 k2tog across
Row 3 *k1, m1; rep from *
Rep Rows 1 - 3 until desired length.

BO.

See Abbreviations and the Glossary for help.

Scarf

Knitting Patterns For Beginners: Easy Scarf

Knitting Patterns For Beginners: Easy Scarf

This scarf is reversible. It uses a lovely and very old traditional lace stitch called Faggot Stitch.

Size
About 6 inches x 50 inches

Gauge
About 3 sts=1" in pattern stitch

Materials Size 11 US (8 mm) needles
2 balls Cameo by Crystal Palace Yarns - #0211 Guacamole
80% merino wool/20% nylon
77 yards/50 grams

Knitting Patterns For Beginners: Easy Scarf See this listing for a shop near you.

Instructions:

CO 18 sts.
Row 1: *K1, YO, k2tog; rep from *
Rep Row 1 until you are almost out of yarn.
BO.

©Crystal Palace Yarns and used with their permission.

See Abbreviations and the Glossa

how to seam

http://home.howstuffworks.com/knitting-instructions12.htm

Favoroite boot slippers

These knit slippers use short rows for a much better fit than most slippers.

There are many variations possible. Knit them up in one color or use up your stash and knit in stripes.

They fit most woman. For babies use one strand of baby weight yarn and size 3 US needles. CO 44 sts and complete using the pattern below, but knit in garter stitch for only 1 inch.

Gauge:
14 sts=4"

Materials:
One strand of bulky weight yarn or two strands of worsted weight held together
Size 9 US (5.5 mm) needles



Instructions

CO 48 sts.
P every row in garter stitch for 2 inches (approx 12 rows). End with WS facing you (your choice as to which side will be the WS).
Introduce second color (if desired) and P across row.
K next row, then P next row.
With RS facing, begin first set of decreasing row as follows:

Dec Row Part 1: K18, k2tog 3 times, place marker to designate middle of slipper, k2tog 3 times, K1, turn (turn work around so you are now on the WS or purl side of the slipper).
Dec Row Part 2: P8, turn (turn work around again to RS or knit side of work).
Dec Row Part 3: K8 (you will see a gap), pick up the base of the right needle's last K st and add it to the left needle, now knit the st to the left of this new st with the newly placed st together (this decreases the st you just added, but also fills in the hole that would have been created by the gap). K across remaining sts.

This is the same as Make One (M1) except you are using the wrap at the base of the last K st on the right needle and not picking up a st between the left and right needle. Sounds complicated, but just give it a try. It's not necessary and if you want to skip this step you can. You will have a slight hole on the left side of the slipper for each dec row however.
Next Row: Purl

Repeat the 3 part Dec Row and purl row 3 times more, knitting across to 6 sts before marker, changing colors as desired.

On last Dec Row, inc 1 st at the beginning and end as follows to allow for a larger cuff:

Last Dec Row: K1, inc 1 (k in front and back of next st) to avoid a gap, do the Dec Row as above by knitting to within 6 sts of marker and k2tog 3 times, slip marker, k2tog 3 times, k1, turn.

When you have finished all 3 parts of the last Dec Row, then p1, inc 1 (P in front and back of next st), p across remaining sts (26 sts).

Begin Ribbing:
K1, p1 loosely across for 12 Rows. Bind off loosely.

Sew up cuff, heel, and foot.

If you want you can spray the bottom of the slippers with any nonskid spray that is washable for better traction.

See Abbreviations and the Glossary for help.

Clog Slippers

MATERIALS
Yarn: Use two strands of 4 ply worsted weight yarn. I'm not sure how much it takes as I bought 170 g skeins and had plenty of yarn leftover. I knit these slippers in two colors. Black for the sole and light blue for the rest of the slipper. You can make them all one color if you want.
Needles: Two 5mm needles. I used circular needles as I find them easier to work with. I used them the same way I would use the two long 5mm needles. But if you prefer using the two long needles, by all means do so.

SIZE: These will fit a foot of 9 1/2 inches. For every 1/2 inch larger add 4 stitches when you cast on. For every 1/2 inch smaller subtract 4 stitches when you cast on. I will have notes in blue on the pattern for where to add or subtract stitches for the different sizes. It will be listed as (S, L) - meaning Small size which is 1/2 inch smaller and L meaning 1/2 inch larger. For even smaller and larger sizes, just add or subtract sts from those sizes. Please note: I have not tried to make these in different sizes. I am only going by my gauge, I think it should work out.

Gauge: 4 sts = 1 inch

Abbreviations used:
st - Stitch
K - Knit
P - Purl
K2tog - Knit 2 stitches together
P2tog - Purl 2 stitches together
inc st - Increase stitch. (I did my increases by picking up a loop between the stitches and putting it on my left needle, then knitting it.)

This pattern is worked in rows. When completed you will sew up the sole and the back of heel seam.

Important: The slippers are folded in half lengthwise when you are finished, so that is why the sole seems big at the start. Just continue working the pattern and when you get to the "Sides and Top", you will notice it taking shape and see where you sew the bottom seam and back of heel seam.

SOLE Of the Slipper:
Working with two strands of yarn held together, Cast on 52 sts. (48, 56)
Rows 1, 2 - K
Row 3 - K1, inc. st, K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K2, inc. st., K24 (22, 26), inc. st, K1 - (56 sts) (52, 60)
Rows 4, 5 - K
Row 6 - K1, inc. st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K2, inc st, K26 (24, 28), inc st, K1 - (60 sts) (56, 64)
Rows 7, 8 - K
Row 9 - K1, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K2, inc st, K28 (26, 30), inc st, K1 - (64 sts) (60, 68)
Rows 10, 11 - K
Row 12 - K1, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K2, inc st, K30 (28, 32), inc st, K1 - (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 13 - K33 (29, 37), inc st, K2, inc st, K33 (29, 37) - (70 sts) (66, 74)

SIDES and TOP of the slipper:
Change colors here if you are using two colors.
Rows 14, 15, 16, 17 - K
Row 18 - K31 (29, 33), K2tog, K4, K2tog , K31 (29, 33) - (68 sts) (64, 72)
Row 19 - K30 (28, 32), K2tog, P4, K2tog, K30 (28, 32) - (66 sts) (62, 70)
Row 20 - K28 (26, 30), K2tog, K6, K2tog, K28 (26, 30) - (64 sts) (60, 68)
Row 21 - K27 (25, 29), K2tog, P6, K2tog, K27 (25, 29) - (62 sts) (58, 66)
Row 22 - K25 (23, 27), K2tog, K8, K2tog, K25 (23, 27) - (60 sts) (56, 64)
Row 23 - K24 (22, 26), K2tog, P8, K2tog, K24 (22, 26) - (58 sts) (54, 62)
Row 24 - K22 (20, 24), K2tog, K10, K2tog, K22 (20, 24) - (56 sts) (52, 60)
Row 25 - K21 (19, 23), K2tog, P10, K2tog, K21 (19, 23) - (54 sts) (50, 58)
Row 26 - K19 (17, 21), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K19 (17, 21) - (52 sts) (48, 56)
Row 27 - K18 (16, 20), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K18 (16, 20) - (50 sts) (46, 54)
Row 28 - K17 (15, 19), K2tog, K12, K2tog, K17 (15, 19) - (48 sts) (44, 52)
Row 29 - K16 (14, 18), K2tog, P12, K2tog, K16 (14, 18) - (46 sts) (42, 50)
Row 30 - K1, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K5, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K12 (10, 14), K2tog, K1 - (41 sts) (37, 45)
Row 31 - K13 (11, 15), K2tog, K11, K2tog, K13 (11, 15) - (39 sts) (35, 43)
Cast off. Sew up seams.


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Fancy thumbless baby mittens

Baby Mittens, Infants to 6 Months and 1 Year Old
Printer-friendly versionThis free pattern originally published by Nomis Yarn Company, Volume 21, in 1948.

Buy the digitally restored eBook for $2.49.





MITTENS INFANTS T0 6 MONTHS AND 1 YEAR OLD

REQUIREMENTS:

YARN: 2-ounces of Knitting Worsted or 2 ounces of Germantown.

NEEDLES: 1-pr. #3 Single Pointed.

RIGHT MITTEN: Starting at the cuff, cast on 32 sts and work in the following pattern for the cuff.

1st row-K 1, p 2, * k 3, p 2, k 1, p 2, repeat from * twice more; k 3, p 2.

2nd row-K 2, p 3, * k 2, p 1, k 2, p 3, repeat from * twice more; k 2, p 1.

3rd row-K 1, p 2, * knit the 3rd knit st from the front of the needle and do not slip off the needle; k the first skipped st and slip off the needle; knit the 2nd skipped stitch and slip off the needle and slip the 3rd stitch off the needle (cable); p 2, k 1, p 2, repeat from * twice more, end with cable, p 2.

4th row-Repeat row 2. Repeat these 4 rows for the pattern until you have 4 cable twists; ending with row 3.

NEXT ROW-Purl across the row, decreasing 3 sts evenly spaced apart.

BEADING ROW: K 1 st, * yarn over, k 2 sts together, repeat from * across the row. Now work in stockinette stitch (p 1 row, k 1 row) until the piece measures 2 ¼ inches from the beading row; ending * with a purl row.

1st dec: * K 3 sts; k 2 sts together, repeat from * across the row ending with k 4. Purl across the next row.

2nd dec: * K 2 sts; k 2 sts together, repeat from * across the row. Purl back across the next row. Bind off all sts. Break the yarn leaving 10 inches. Fold the mitten in two. Sew across the tip and along the side of the mitten.

LEFT MITTEN: 1st row-P 2, * k 3, p 2, k 1, p 2, repeat from * twice more; end with k 3, p 2, k 1.

2nd row-P 1, k 2, * p 3, k 2, p 1, k 2, repeat from * twice more; end with p 3, k 2.

3rd row-As row 1 but cable on the 3 knit sts.

4th row-Repeat row 2.




Other great knitting patterns from 2 Needle Mittens, Volume 91:

Knitting Patterns

Fast baby mittens

Fast Baby Mittens
This is a great little pattern when you need to make a baby gift FAST! You’ll need a 50g skein of any sport- or DK-weight yarn and a set of US size 2 double-pointed needles.

Cast on 24 stitches. K2. P2 rib for 8 rows.

Change to Stockinette stitch and knit 24 rows.

Decrease for top as follows:

Row 1: K2, K2tog around.

Row 2: Knit.

Row 3: K1, K2tog around.

Row 4: K2tog around.

Break yarn and pass the end throught the remaining sts. Sew in ends. I highly recommend making some kind of cord to attach the two mittens. Either use a crochet chain or braid the yarn. I used to give these mittens away unattached until my mother found out and set me straight! ;-)

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern:
CO - Cast on

K - Knit

P - Purl

St st - Stockinette stitch

st/sts - stitch/stitches

tog - together (as in “K2tog”—knit two stitches together)

Easy Thumbless Mittens

By Lorri Ann R.

After I finished dying my recycled yarn with Kool Aid, I knit up some thumbless mittens for my 8 month old. There is nothing as frustrating as trying to fit a baby thumb into a mitten so I have skipped the thumb. I have written out the directions so that everyone can knit mittens for the babies in their lives.

Size:
Fits approximately 6 to 18 months.

Materials:
50g worsted weight yarn (I used recycled yarn (11wpi) from a white thrift store sweater that I dyed with Berry Blue Kool Aid.)
Four size 3 double pointed needles (or size needed for gauge)
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle

Gauge:
20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Directions:

Make 2:

Cast on 28 stitches loosely.

Arrange stitches evenly over 3 double pointed needles. Join into a circle being careful not to twist your work. Place marker at the beginning of the row.

Ribbing: *K2, P2*, 7 times.

Repeat ribbing row until ribbing measures 1 ½ inches.

Increase row: K next row across increasing 4 stitches evenly around. (32 stitches)

Stockinette stitch: Continue to K around until the stockinette stitch portion of the mitten measures 2 inches.

Next row: *K6, K2tog*, 4 times. (28 stitches)

Stockinette stitch: Continue to K around until the stockinette stitch portion of the mitten measures 3 inches.

Decrease as follows:
Row 1: *K5, K2tog*, 4 times. (24 stitches)
Row 2: K around.
Row 3: *K4, K2tog*, 4 times.
Row 4: K around.
Row 5: *K3, K2tog*, 4 times.
Row 6: *K2, K2tog*, 4 times.
Row 7: *K, K2tog*, 4 times.
Row 8: K2tog 4 times. (4 stitches)

Finishing: Cut yarn leaving a 10 inch tail. Thread yarn onto tapestry needle and sew through remaining 4 stitches 2 times. Tack tail on inside of mitten. Weave in ends.

Abbreviations:
K - knit
P - purl
K2tog - knit 2 together
Dec - decrease
Inc - increase
Wpi - wraps per inch

This pattern is for your personal use only. Please do not copy it, post it, or sell items made using pattern.

jack and jill mittens

Yarn: 100 grams heavy wool yarn 3ply; #4 double pointed needles

With two strands of yarn held together as one, cast on 24 sts. Join. Work in the round in *k1p1* ribbing for 5.5-6 cm. Continue in purl stitch for 4 cm. Place 6 sts on stitch holder (for the base of the thumb) and purl the remaining 18sts in the round for another 7cm. Cut yarn leaving a 15cm tail. Using a darning needle, run yarn through all 18sts and pull tight. You are left with a very nice looking ring of stitches which won’t be uncomfortable to the child’s fingers.
Pick up the 6 sts off st holder, then pick up 4-6 sts evenly around the hole for the thumb. Now, be careful. You don’t want the thumb to have an edge, so the sts you pick up must be purl. Then, purl in the round for 4 cm and close with the help of a darning needle as in the top of the mitten.
Clean the mittens of any loose threads by slipping the threads in between the stitches and turn the mittens inside out.
That way, the stocking stitch is on the right side of the mitten. Of course, if you find it easier, you can work in knit stitch instead of purl and when you finish it, you will have knitted it on the right side.
To make the brim of the hat: pick up 20-30sts from the round where the thumb hole leaves off and rib for 2-2.5cm *k1p1*


Jack & Jill baby mittens

Have fun. You will see that these mittens will bring a little happiness to you, too.
Embroidery: use different color yarns to make it. Free your imagination. They don’t have to be like the ones I suggest. Your imagination and love for your child can do miracles. But your work will be rewarded. Children don’t keep anything back and you will be able to see their joy when you give them their new mittens. Now that is a well-earned reward, isn’t it?

My experiences with my own daughter have taught me that even though children love their toys and clothes, it's easy to lose them. And they suffer sincerely. Well, even a heart of ice would be moved by such sorrow in the eyes of a child. And then, it’s back to the knitting needles to replace the lost mitten. Or, you can cleverly make a crochet chain with which to join the two mittens together. Just slip the chain through the sleeves of the child’s coat. That way the mittens will never be lost :-)


free patterns free p

thumbless mittens

the size - 0-3 months
the guage - 7 stitches and 10 rows = 1 inch
the materials
set of 4 size 2 double pointed needles
size D crochet hook
2 balls of worsted weight yarn in contrasting colors
(I used some leftover Patons Classic Merino Wool in Rich Red and Royal Purple)
the pattern
Mitten (make 2):
You can use any color pattern you like. For the purple/red mittens I alternated 3 rows of red and 6 rows or purple.
Cast on 30 stitches, distribute the stitches equally across 3 of the dpns
Round 1: Place stitch marker, join stitches, being careful not to twist. Begin a 1x1 rib (*k1, p1, repeat from * to marker).
Round 2-9: Continue 1x1 rib.
Round 10: k all stitches.
Round 11: *k1, m1, k8, repeat from * (33 sts)
Round 12-13: k
Round 14: *k1, m1, k9, repeat from * (36 sts)
Round 15-16: k
Round 17: *k1, m1, k10, repeat from * (39 sts)
Round 18-23: k
Round 24: *k1, m1, k11, repeat from * (42 sts)
Round 25-26: k
Round 27: *k5, k2tog, repeat from * (36 sts)
Round 28: k
Round 29: *k4, k2tog, repeat from * (30 sts)
Round 30: k
Round 31: *k3, k2tog, repeat from * (24 sts)
Round 32: k
Round 33: *k2, k2tog, repeat from * (18 sts)
Round 34: k
Round 35: *k1, k2tog, repeat from * (12 sts)
Round 36: k2tog across
Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Draw tail through remaining sts and tie off. Weave in ends
Make tie with color A and crochet hook:
Row 1: ch 37, sc in mitt in the middle of the 1x1 rib, ch 37 turn
Row 2: sc 37, sc in mitt next to other scin the 1x1 rib, sc 37. Cut yarn and draw through last stitch. Weave in ends
Tags : completedproject pattern mittens baby
Responses[1] Posted by Jessica on February 12, 2008 8:47:27 PM EST #



Reply Re: Striped Baby Mittens
Comment from Anonymous on October 24, 2008 12:05:44 PM EDT #
I love the pattern - I was searching for baby mittens with worsted weight yarn knitted in the round to match a hat, and this was perfect!

I just wondered if there is a mistake in the pattern though, I think it should be:

Round 11: k1, m1, k9, repeat from * (33 sts)

Round 14: k1, m1, k10, repeat from * (36 sts)

Round 17: k1, m1, k11, repeat from * (39 sts)

Round 24: k1, m1, k12, repeat from * (42 sts)

Otherwise the finished mittens are lovely.

Best regards, Helen

cute mittens

When it’s late at night and the cold winds blow, you’ll be glad you made these toasty mittens. Knit in the round with thick worsted wool, this project is a good one to try after mastering the Sculpted Hat. (In fact, the leftover yarn from the hat will make a whole pair of mittens.) This pattern fits an average woman’s hand if you tend to knit tightly. For loose knitters or smaller hands, use size 3 and 4 double pointed needle instead. To create a larger mitten, move up a size or two with your needles.
YOU WILL NEED
1 skein (4 ounces) acrylic or wool worsted yarn
4 size 4 double-pointed needles
4 size 5 double-pointed needles
2 stitch markers
Stitch holder
Scissors
Yarn needle
Row counter (optional)
TECHNIQUES
Casting on
Knitting in the round
Rib stitch
Stockinette stitch
Increasing
Decreasing
Picking up stitches
Weaving in loose ends

DIFFICULTY LEVEL = 4

for the hand:

1. Cast 36 stitches on a size 4 double-pointed needle. Divide the stitches among 3 of the needles, 12 stitches per needle. You will be using the fourth needle to knit with.
2. Join the stitches into a circle and work 22 rounds in knit 2, purl 2 ribbing. This is the ribbed cuff.
3. Round 23: Work in stockinette stitch (knit only, since you’re working in the round). Switch to the size 5 needles by substituting a 5 for a 4 as you knit around. Set the size 4 needles aside.
4. Knit 1 more round (for a total of 2 rounds on the number 5 needles). You will now begin to increase to match the shape of the hand and to create the thumb gusset.
5. Knit 1 stitch and place one of the stitch markers immediately after it. Increase 1 by knitting through the front and the back of the next stitch, then knit 1. Place the second marker. There are now 3 stitches between the markers. Increase 1, then knit to the end of the round.
6. Knit 2 rounds, slipping the markers from your left to right needle as you go.
7. Knit 1, slip the marker to your right needle, increase 1, knit 1, increase 1. There are 5 stiches between the markers. Knit to the end of the round, and knit 2 more rounds.
8. Repeat step 7, increasing after the first marker and before the second one until you have 13 stiches between the markers. (Knit the additional 2 rounds after each increase round.)
9. Knit 1 stitch as if you were starting a new round, then take the first marker off and slide the 13 stiches off the needle and onto the stitch holder. You will use these stitches later to create the thumb.
10. Knit 25 rounds.
11. Begin decreasing for the mitten tip. For the next 4 rounds, knit 4 stitches and then knit 2 together, repeating throughout the round.
12. For the last 2 rounds, knit 3 stitches, and then knit 2 together, repeating throughout the round.
13. Cut a 12-inch tail and use your yarn needle to draw the tail through the remaining stitches. Pull the yarn tight, knot to secure, and weave in the ends.

for the thumb:

1. Slip the 13 reserved stitches from the stitch holder onto 2 size 5 needles, placing 7 stitches on one needle and 6 on the other.
2. Using a third size 7 needle, pick up 3 stitches in the space between the first 2 needles to form a triangle.
3. Starting on the right side of the third needle, knit a round, leaving an 8-inch tail to weave in later.
4. Knit 14 more rounds.
5. Begin decreasing to create the thumb tip. For 1 round, knit 1 stitch and then knit 2 together, repeating throughout.
6. For the final round, knit 2 together throughout.
7. Cut an 8-inch tail and use your yarn needle to draw the yarn through the remaining stitches. Pull it tight, knot to secure, and weave in and trim the ends. Gently tighten the tail at the base of the thumb and weave it in.
8. Repeat steps from casting on for the hand to make the second mitten!

improvisation idea: Choose 3 different colors and switch to another one every 10 rows.

more projects

Ear flap hats

BABY/TODDLER EARFLAP HAT PATTERN

Size: approx 6-18 mo (2-3 years)
Yarn: 6-18 mo size: For boy: Lana Grossa Easy Prints, color olive, dark gray, cream mix, (100% merino wool), bulky weight, 55 yards per 50 gram skein For girl: Lion Brand Landscapes, color Rose Garden, (50% acrylic, 50% wool), super bulky weight, 55 yards/7.75 oz per skein. 2-4 year size, Lornas Laces Shepherd Worsted (three strands held together), color Lakeview, (100% wool), worsted weight, 225 yards per 114 gram skein
Quantity: about 1.5 skeins of the bulky weight (I think) and 1 skein of the worsted weight (cut into thirds and three stands held together). (note: I could have used a smidge more of the worsted, and made my ties shorter, to compensate).
Needles: Clover Bamboo 16” circular size 10 and dpn size 10 and 7
Gauge: 3 st/inch
Started/finished: Approximately three hours to knit this hat
Washing Instructions: Hand wash and lay flat to dry (the Easy Print yarn is machine washable, but when I did that with my first hat, the pom-pom semi-felted into a ball – okay if it is the look you want)

Note: directions given first are for the boy version, girl version follow in [brackets]. directions for smaller size are also given first, followed by the larger size in (italics)

Also, please note that I am pretty sure my daughter has a smallish head. You might need to add more length before starting the decreases. Knit hat body:

Using long-tail cast on method, cast on 50 st (60 stitches)
Place a marker and join, being careful not to twist the stitches
Knit ¾” (1”) garter [seed] stitch.
Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and knit even until hat measures 3 ¾” (4”) from cast on edge.
*Knit 8 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 7 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row (you will probably need to switch to size 10 dpn at this point)
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 6 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 5 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 4 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
*Knit 3 stitches, k2tog*, continue to end of row
Knit 1 row even
use darning needle to weave yarn end through the live stitches and pull tight
make a pom-pom, attach to top of hat and weave in all ends
Add earflaps:

Fold hat in half and place a removable marker at the halfway points at the cast on edge.
You can either place the earflaps an equal distance apart, or you can place them slightly closer together on one side so there is a more clear “front” and “back”. To make them off center: count 4 stitches over from one marker and pick up 12 (14) stitches. If picking up stitches on a garter stitch border, pick up from the outside of the hat (put your needles in from the outside and pull the yarn through from the inside), and pick up slightly above the cast on edge (about a stitch higher than you normally would pick up from). [If picking up from a seed stitch border, pick up from the INSIDE of the hat.] These tricks will help make a more uniform look at the attachment point of the earflap.
knit 2 (3) rows even [or knit seed stitch for 2 (3) rows even]
k 2tog, k8 (10) st, k2tog [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary]
k even [or knit seed stitch]
k2tog, k6 (8) st, k2tog [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary]
k even [or knit seed stitch]
k2tog, k4 (6), k2tog [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary]
k2tob, k2 (4), k2tog [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary]
k2tog, (k2) k2tog, [remember to knit in seed stitch, if necessary] 2 (4) st left at end of this row. For smaller size only, skip to step 12.
For larger size only: k2tog, k2tog. 2 stitches left at end of this row.
switch to size 7 dpn and knit 10 inches of I-cord
bind off
Repeat steps 1-12 on the other side of the hat, remembering to place the earflap slightly off-center (if you did so on the first side).
weave in all ends.